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Givler's Crack 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Steve Marts 1970s
Page Views: 5,498
Submitted By: ScottH on Feb 2, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (80)
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on ledge 45 ft below flake

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Givler's Crack is the prominent 250 foot hand crack on the front of Givler's Dome, surrounded by an obvious white wear streak. The Kramar guidebook calls it "one of the most popular routes" in the area.

It's an okay route, and a decent lead for a 5.7 leader, but it's a long way up there and the good climbing on this one is fairly short. I personally don't think it's worth the approach. There are a handful of other routes in the area, but if you're coming up to lead Givler's, you probably won't be leading them.

P1. Begin in an alcove near a tree. Some tricky moves off the ground lead to an obvious crack heading up and left. Belay on top of the horizontal flake. ~40 feet, 5.7+.

P2. Head straight up the hand crack above you. The initial climbing is fun and interesting 5.7 with good gear, but after 50 feet or so, the angle of the dome begins to fall off and the climbing gets easier and easier and less and less interesting.

To descend, walk off the back of the dome to the left.


Gear to 3"

Photos of Givler's Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The first pitch.
The first pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Givler's Dome with Givler's Crack
Givler's Dome with Givler's Crack

Comments on Givler's Crack Add Comment
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By Ray Birks
Apr 27, 2006

The hike takes over half an hour. The route itself is very fun simply because the crack is consistent and there are lots of gear placements. The beginning is awkward and that's where the 5.7+ comes in. I thought it was harder than that but you can bypass the beginning by walking around to the right and up the ramp. We broke it up into three pitches so we could all lead. I led to the ramp, and then up to the top of the flake, and then up the crack about 3/4 of the way. My wife led the last part of the crack.
By Rafe
May 5, 2009
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Very nice crack. It's worth the hike if you haven't done it. Bo Derek is also really good..makes the hike even more worth it...once anyways..
By Scott Matz
From: Loveland, CO
Jun 22, 2009

watch your legs ,Andy had to step over a rattler, just above the ramp. they seem pretty nice, if you leave them a lone
By Adam Volwiler
Jun 20, 2011

If you have a 70 and are willing to build an anchor about 10 feet from the top you can always do it in one pitch. I was having so much fun I just kept going and about 10 feet from the top I ran out of rope. If you bypass the 5.7 start by walking up the ramp to the right you can do the pitch in one long rope stretcher for sure.
By The Guy
Oct 3, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Yeah, this route is definitely a rope stretcher. No real crux. 25 minute hike. 15 minute route. 20 min descent. Bring a 70m and a couple hand size pieces.
By Jake Douglas
Oct 16, 2014

The beginning feels more like 5.8, but is a good challenge and you get a stance to get a solid piece or two in above you to keep you off the ground with a tight belay. I recommend giving it a try.

After traversing left to the base of the "blank" section, a person of about 6 feet can reach up and place a decent 0.4 or 0.5 in the crack above before stepping up, and then another one shortly after before gaining the crack.

From there it's all great jams and even though it looks steeper the climbing just gets easier the higher you go. The long stretch to the top is probably the part that a newer person should lead, as it is the most secure climbing and as well protected as you can get.
By Tess Wendel
From: Seattle, WA
Jun 28, 2016

The approach hike meant no leavenworth lines for us even though it was a beautiful sunny weekend day. If you have a new trad leader I definitely recommend pitch 2 for them because it has great easy climbing, beautiful crack with good feet for getting practice placing nuts.

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