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Mike on one of his favorite routes: Giucco Piano
Good friction training.
Climb slab, passing a bolt, to low overhang. Climb through this at a short vertical crack, move up onto a steep slab and climb it, passing 2 bolts along the way, to a final flap and 1 more bolt before reaching a small oak tree on a ledge under the big white pine tree.
Start between 2 mossy strips on the slab, about 40' from the left end of the cliff.
The short vertical crack takes medium cams, stoppers, tricams, whatever; the rest of the route depends on bolts for gear.
Gauging the frictional coefficient during the FA.
Oct 11, 2016
I think this is one of the best routes on the slab. It's a much better pitch at 5.8, than, say, Belleview is at 5.9.