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Girls and Buoys 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Kimi Harrison, Leslie Appling
Page Views: 1,852
Submitted By: Steve Marr on Feb 7, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (33)
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BETA PHOTO: At the anchors on Girls and Buoys, Guise and Gals ...

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


From Guise and Gals, continue under the boulder and around the corner to find the start of Girls and Buoys. Good climb for a 5.5. Start in the left most of three corners at ground level and climb about 40 feet to a ledge. Step left into the first corner and continue to the anchors. The crux is stepping into the upper corner – the climbing is easy, but the pro is a little thin in spots, especially as you move higher. Fun, thoughtful route. (There is a 5.4 variation that climbs the second corner to the left from the ledge. It can also be reached by starting on Guise and Gals and traversing to the right.)


Protection: Cams up to #3 Camalot for the bottom, small wires towards the top.

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By CalebSimpson
Apr 4, 2008
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Felt more like 5.6 as did the route to the left.
I also recommend a #4 and a #.75 for the traverse left.
The left crack protects better than the right (after the traverse), but the right side looked easier. Perhaps that is why it felt more like 5.6. I was able to place a yellow and red (I think) TCU on that side.

Also, be careful moving to the anchors, the wall is VERY slick. I would clip in before moving onto the face the anchors are on. There is also currently (April 2007) a mangled mess of tattered webbing with one rap ring up on the anchors.
By Alex Rogers
From: Sydney, Australia
Oct 4, 2011
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

I find grades difficult at this level, didn't feel any different to Guise & Gals next door in terms of difficulty, but was a little trickier to protect at the top. Nice climb as well, with hummingbirds attracted to the flowers growing in an adjacent crack. The tat at the top had been cleaned up and some decent slings 'n rings left in situ.
By Cunning Linguist
Apr 24, 2012

Saw an epic on this one this weekend. Not a good lead for inexperienced climbers. Even with long slings, protecting before the traverse will result in nightmare rope drag. Skipping gear before the traverse allows the rope to run over the face as opposed to around the corner and greatly reduces drag. Slick moves near the top tend to paralyze new leaders. Anchor has been upgraded and is fine.
By Szu-Ping Lee
Jan 27, 2014
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13

Feels harder than the 5.5 rating.
The first move on to the route is fun but not protected then is fine up to the ledge. After the traverse, both corners (left and right) are not well protected, especially first move for the left corner. Relatively smooth sailing after this move. Sure is a memorable route.

Solid anchors(2) at the top.

Rock Climbing Photo: Girls and Buoys from the top
Girls and Buoys from the top
By Joanna Buffalini
From: Las Vegas, NV
Aug 23, 2015

Fun lead! I loved the 'choose your own adventure' feature after you traverse left. I went to the left of the column since it looked like it had more protection, but it was a little tricky clipping into the anchor. I think the left sided version may take a little more technique. My partner used some holds on the arete when going up the left side of the column. I totally get tunnel vision on lead so I never even poked around for any holds on the arete. That may lessen the sketchiness. Super fun climb.
By Howard
From: Costa Mesa, CA
Dec 29, 2016

Going up the right side, there was a run out and some tenuous moves that didn't feel 5.5 at all. This coming from a J Tree climber accustomed to thin slabs and water chutes.

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