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Premier Route 5.10c or 5.8 A0 T 

Girl Shaped Love Drug 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 500'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: S.P. Parker, Chris Simmons (2008)
Page Views: 56
Submitted By: Bryan G on Aug 26, 2011

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Portal Road Closure MORE INFO >>>


This route makes a nice addition to the formation with 3 pitches of varied and enjoyable climbing. The route starts off a ledge system about 60 feet off the ground and a couple hundred feet to the right of Phishing Opener. Scramble up a 3rd/4th class ramp to reach the start.

Pitch 1: Traverse off the ledge to the right and then head up past a few bolts and a couple gear placements to an uncomfortable hanging belay below the arching roof. I really liked this pitch. The runout climbing on steep, juggy patina reminds me of the crux pitch of Hobbit Book.

Pitch 2: Clip the bolt above the flake/roof and make a burly undercling left and then lieback up. Some jamming lead to a ledge with a tenuous move to a bolt. Maintain balance as you step left to another bolt and then keep traversing left to more featured rock. Head up on easy terrain to another bolted anchor.

Pitch 3: Scramble to the right to a steep seam. Some nuts and a bolt protect the seam and there's another bolt above that. Above the angle lessens and you climb up and left for a ways on 5.6 terrain. The route finding here is sort of difficult. You want to end up at a slightly steeper bulge with a seam in it. A micro cam or small nut protects the 5.8 move here and shortly after you will reach the anchor.

From here you can continue up to the top via one of the finishing options for the Premier Route. This adds one more pitch of clean 5.8ish climbing to the route.

From the top of the formation you can rap to the gully to the left with one 60m. Otherwise you can rappel the route from any pitch with two ropes. From the top of pitch 2 it's best to rap to the right to ledges and scramble down easy class 3 from there. This avoids rapping down the loose and brush covered ledges directly beneath the first pitch.


Pro to 3"

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By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Sep 14, 2012

Hey Bryan,

In the Croft and Lewis guide it states that there is a bolt following the 5.6 climbing (just before the anchor) on the third pitch. You state that you are heading for a seam that takes small gear, but no mention of a bolt. Do you think the book is off or is it possible that you missed the bolt? Just curious.


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