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Giradelli T 
Thin Mint T 

Giradelli 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 900', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Rick Studley & Jeff Benowitz 1995
Season: June-August
Page Views: 1,795
Submitted By: Richard Shore on Jul 5, 2013

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Adrienne Kentner following up somewhere between P5...

Description 

The classic and "most popular" route at Mount Prindle, though I'd guess it sees <5 ascents per season. The line tackles the aesthetic western margin/skyline of the Main Wall (as seen from the approach), and has a number of variation finishes to the final pitches. Rock quality can vary wildly, and bomb-proof belay anchors are in short supply. There is no fixed gear or bolt anchors. If you have any doubts about your ability to navigate through loose/grainy rock, vegetation, gravel, bad or sometimes no protection, and lots of lichen, do not attempt this route. Otherwise, it is a fine quality adventure route for the competent and experienced climber.

P1) Up the low-angle left facing corner to a stance below the large square roof. 5.4

P2) Up and over the roof on it's right side, then follow shallow flaring cracks with a short OW section to a stance at the base of the large left-facing corner. Crux, 5.9

P3) Climb the highly vegetated and massive LF dihedral. Move out left towards the end of the corner to a belay near a short chimney/start of the 4th class. 5.7

P4) 4th class up a grassy gully/LF corner to a large grassy ledge at the base of the steep tower.

Variation finishes for Ghirardelli, including Thin Mint and Godiva (both 5.8), all start at the end of this pitch.

P5) Traverse left on the grassy ledge and follow obvious weaknesses upwards on the west side of the tower. Belay at the base of the steep final headwall. 5.easy.

P6) Climb left-slanting cracks up the headwall to the summit. 5.7. A hundred feet or so of class 3 scrambling will get you to the summit proper.

Location 

Towards the left end of the main wall. Locate the obvious LF dihedral system with low roof that runs for nearly 600'. Easy walkoff to either the East or West side from the summit.

Protection 

Standard rack including a set of nuts and optional 4" cam.


Photos of Giradelli Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Adrienne Kentner topping out on Ghirardelli with t...
Adrienne Kentner topping out on Ghirardelli with t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitches 1-3 of Ghirardelli visible. The route clim...
Pitches 1-3 of Ghirardelli visible. The route clim...
Rock Climbing Photo: Adrienne Kentner coming up the 4th class P4 on a s...
Adrienne Kentner coming up the 4th class P4 on a s...
Rock Climbing Photo: Adrienne Kentner following P3 of Ghirardelli.
Adrienne Kentner following P3 of Ghirardelli.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ghirardelli and Thin Mint photo/topo
BETA PHOTO: Ghirardelli and Thin Mint photo/topo

Comments on Giradelli Add Comment
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By Richard Shore
Jul 5, 2013

I've listed the route name as it's spelled in Stan Justice's guide, but based on the other chocolate-themed routes on the wall, I assume they meant to say "Ghirardelli."
By Seth Kane
From: Bozeman, Montana
Jun 4, 2014
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

the "were not in kansas anymore" finish is a fun squeeze chimney. Would not recommend the 5.5 pitch after it in the rain however (lichen may be slippery when wet). I thought the first 5.9 pitch was a little soft for the grade in the interior, and definitely easier then the 5.9 squeeze pitch on "were not in..." It is however, an amazing pitch of climbing and pulling the roof is an awesome move. Some of the best climbing I've done in the interior.
By RW1
From: Fairbanks, AK
Aug 15, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

"best climbing in the interior" simply because it's the ONLY (multi-pitch) climbing in the interior.

BLUF, my honest assessment is that it's a really long walk for a few pitches of chossy rock.

From Nome Creek, it's about 10 miles to the rock face. The valley was pretty wet this year due to constant rain, with potentially dangerous stream crossings. You can take the ridges to the north and stay dry, however there's a good bit of elevation gain. The ridges do offer some amazing alpine scenery though, and there's a family of dall sheep closer to Prindle.

This approach (the ridges north of the creek) would be optimal for a three-day trip. One day each for the approach and departure, and a day on the rock. There are streams in the valleys, so water weight shouldn't be an issue.

As for the route itself, with all the rain this year, I'm guessing there has been extremely little traffic on the route. The rock was covered in lichen and moss, which will get extremely slick if wet. Lots of loose and/or potentially dangerous rock as well. A new trad leader would be challenged for sure to find good, solid gear.

The fourth pitch was fairly runout, although very easy climbing/scrambling.

Parties can bail from the fourth pitch with a single rope rappel into the draw on the climber's left; there are several slings and an old piton on the way out.

Definitely an adventure. And like everything else in Alaska, this can't be taken lightly. Potential climbers should think of this as more an expedition than a rock climb and plan accordingly.
By Dommelhiemer
Administrator
From: Anchorage
Aug 16, 2016

welcome to alpine climbing RW1...
By RW1
From: Fairbanks, AK
Aug 16, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I'd add the caveat "Alaska" alpine, since I've climbed plenty of alpine in CO, WA and even NM where there isn't a 20+ mile round trip involved.