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Ginseng 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Mike Tea, Roxanne Tea 1995
Page Views: 2,033
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Oct 9, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Andy on the upper reaches of Ginseng.

  • Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse. MORE INFO >>>
  • Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    A fun route if you have done sasquatch a million times! Step right off of the sasquatch ledge, trend right toward double cracks, straight up offwidth to tree, left out onto face to top. reachy 10a move protected with brass nuts (maybe an alien), very cool, and a fun alternative. A touch trickier than sasquatch, but not as sustained.

    Protection 

    standard rack, handful of brass.


    Photos of Ginseng Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Start of Ginseng.  It goes up the middle crack, al...
    BETA PHOTO: Start of Ginseng. It goes up the middle crack, al...

    Comments on Ginseng Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Anonymous Coward
    May 23, 2005

    This is a fun, though sadly, overlooked route. Give it a shot if you are waiting for Sasquatch, or to tick another route on teh wall, but bring some brass, or maybe a black Alien (I used that). Too bad it doesn't get climbed enough to keep the grass out of the moves down low. If it was anywhere than next to Sasquatch, it would be climbed more. At the top, angle left, and climb the slab to Sasquatch anchors.
    By Nathan Fisher
    Aug 2, 2005
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    A fun layaway sequence down low leads to a boring offwidth that climbs like a gully. This in turn, leads to a fun short face. Too inconsistent to be good, but worth doing.
    By superagave
    Mar 3, 2006

    I beleive that the FA belongs to a Mike Tea
    By Nathan Fisher
    Jun 30, 2006
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Brass really aren't needed. I used a Blue Wild Country Zero, and a Purple DMM, and like a 6 wall nut, maybe a 5, to protect on the lower cracks. All good pieces. Exciting lead.
    By Tea
    Jul 14, 2007

    looking bushy these days, add one bottle of roundup to the rack! Best to link directly into littlefoot for a nice long pitch.
    By Charlie S
    From: Ogden, UT
    Sep 1, 2014

    I believe the initial "barn door" moves as described in the guidebook were for when the anchor was not present. The crack above takes standard nuts or a green alien down low, opening up to a nice #0.3-#0.4 at the top before the final opening moves.

    The crux is short and ends at a glory jug. Sew it up or gun for it!

    The climb is definitely worthy and a great alternative if Sasquatch has a queue.
    By Tea
    Sep 12, 2016

    This climb starts off the Sasquatch belay ledge, NOT the newer rap station by the tree. The "Barn Door Moves" are trending right up flakes into the three cracks in this picture.

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