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Ginseng Rush 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Rolofson and D'Antonio, 1985, on gear. Retrobolted in 1993
Page Views: 1,342
Submitted By: richard magill on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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BETA PHOTO: Orange Crush, Respite, Jolt Cola, and Ginseng Rush...

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  • Description 

    Ginseng Rush is in the gully area of Blob Rock, just right of Jolt Cola.

    It feels scary between the 3rd and 4th bolt, but it is not really dangerous. This is runout on 10a ground between the 4th and 5th bolt - gear can be placed here if desired.

    It will work your forearms, fingers, footwork, and lead head all at once! Nice climb.

    Protection 

    5 bolts, small wires and cams can also be placed if desired.


    Comments on Ginseng Rush Add Comment
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    By Willie Mein
    Sep 12, 2002

    The first bolt can be clipped from stemming across the gully. One can start here or from the ground (which is more difficult).Good route.
    By Dan Levison
    From: Boulder, CO
    Sep 12, 2002

    I agree, this a great climb and much harder in my opinion than its neighboring climb, Jolt Cola (direct start), which is also rated 12a. As you know, getting to the first bolt (w/o the gully stem) requires 5.11 climbing on somewhat dirty, lichen-covered rock, with the first bolt well above the talus-filled gully. Stemming across the gully is still somewhat sketchy and it eliminates the first 10_15 feet of face climbing. In my opinion, the climb would be vastly improved by adding a bolt to the start. I understand that it was originally led on gear in 1985 and subsequently retro-bolted in 1993 by Mark Rolofson. Normally, I would never want to retro-bolt a climb originally led on gear; however, since it's retro-bolted already, I though it would be an improvement to add a bolt and not mess around with stick clips, gully stems, and unnecessary risk. The climb already has a _spicy_ run-out between bolts 3 and 4, and 4 and 5; therefore, I don't feel the nature/character of the climb would be altered.
    By Rob Kepley
    From: Westminster,CO
    Dec 21, 2007

    Really powerful climbing for most of the route. Quite a bit harder than JC next door. Small gear at the top not a bad idea, I didn't have any. Must have been one heck of a ride back in the day with only 2 bolts! yikes!
    By Mark Rolofson
    Mar 24, 2017
    rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

    I led the first ascent of this climb in 1985. It had a fixed copperhead & fixed nut to start. From the crux at 4th bolt up to the finish on a big ledge, the climb was protected by removable gear placed on lead. The exact piece had to be placed correctly from a strenuous position. I led it after top roping it & inspecting the gear on rappel.

    By 1993, the poor fixed gear was gone. I decided to retro bolt it, as it had seen very few ascents, but has very interesting climbing. It is far better as a sport route. The original finish that climbed a moderate large detached flake leading to the big ledge, is avoided as a sport route. It joins Jolt Cola instead.

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