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Shirt Tail Peak
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Emperor's New Shoes, The T 
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Ginseng Junkie T 
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King Of Pain T,S,TR 
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Sorenson Crack T 
Throne, The T,S 
Tiger Balm Arete T 
Windlass or 'The Tail' T 

Ginseng Junkie 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter and Linda Willing, 1979
Page Views: 2,063
Submitted By: Matt Robertson on Dec 8, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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BETA PHOTO: Ginseng Junkie (5.10a) via Gambit, to Tiger Balm A...

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  • Description 

    Another short pitch on the "Tour of 5.10 Variations to Gambit," this one improves slightly over Missing Link on quality. From the big ledge above Missing Link (or the top of the dihedral pitch of Gambit), belay near a pine tree. Work up a short, bulging, triangular corner with a fist crack (briefly 5.9) to another ledge, step right to a steep dihedral, and ascend a nice finger crack to a larger ledge (Yosemite Ledge).

    From the belay on Yosemite Ledge, continue straight up easier cracks overhead, or, perhaps better, traverse to the left margin of the massive Shirttail face, and join the spectacular summit pitch of Tiger Balm Arete.


    Eldo gear to a #1 Camalot, plus a #3.5 or 4 Camalot for a short fist crack below the crux.

    Photos of Ginseng Junkie Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Face climbing around the crack.
    Face climbing around the crack.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Already a hand on the jug.
    Already a hand on the jug.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Clint working up the 5.9 corner past the pine tree...
    Clint working up the 5.9 corner past the pine tree...

    Comments on Ginseng Junkie Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By George Bell
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jan 10, 2002

    This one move wonder is pretty easy for 5.10, it seems a lot of folks climb it thinking they are still on Gambit. A worthwhile variation in any case.
    By Graham Rogers
    Mar 16, 2003

    Did this yesterday on that fine 75 degree day. Agreed, this felt soft for Eldo 10a because you are through the crux to a nice jug so quickly.I'd think tall people may never find the crux, or for them this could be called a half-move wonder...or one-third move.Still a satisfying move, no matter. We definitely enjoyed the finish continuing after the crux left, as suggested, on Tiger Balm arete; so airy, sooo nice!
    By Bryson Slothower
    Apr 12, 2003

    Last pitch has spectacular exposure but the rock quality leaves a bit to be desired, climb carefully.
    By Brian Aitken
    Apr 6, 2008

    From a follower's perspective, the grade may be a bit contrived because the moves are over with so quickly... but the leader may feel much differently.

    Great variation to Gambit.
    By Kyle Kunkle
    Apr 21, 2009

    The jug at the crux felt a bit loose to me. I'm a bigger guys and not a very good climber (lots of weight on my hands) but I'm sure I heard a little cracking. Be safe and have fun.
    By Erik Werner
    From: Boulder, CO
    Apr 23, 2009

    With a 60m rope you can summit in one pitch from the top of P2 on Gambit (making for a stellar 2 pitch climb of Shirt Tail Peak). Crux felt more like 5.9/5.9+ than a typical Eldo 10a. We took the first traverse after the crux to meet up with the Tiger Balm Arete and followed it straight to the top. Bring plenty of shoulder length slings to keep rope drag manageable. Highly recommended.
    By Richard Radcliffe
    From: Louisville, CO
    Dec 20, 2009

    Is it possible that an important foothold has broken off at mid-crux? Maybe I'm going crazy, but the left foot seen in the "Already a hand on the jug" photo just wasn't there. That little bit seemed a lot harder than 5.9 to both me and my partner, especially if the "...5.9 corner past the pine tree..." (Clint) is really 5.9 (which felt more like 5.7-5.8 at most).

    I humbly suggest that the crux section of GJ is now solid 11.
    By Ben Walburn
    Sep 29, 2014
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    Linked this from Cro-Magnon, and it made for a great 5.10 link-up, although you want to be solid at the grade. The opening crux moves are harder than 5.9. It would make sense to me that, as stated above, something may have broken. At the very least, the move is now solid 5.10.

    The other comment that caught my attention was the jug you grab to exit the crux being loose. It is loose and is about to pull off. When I grabbed pulled off just a touch, and I'm not talking about flexing. There was no "flex" just a slight detachment outward and the sound of granular sand crunching. The next jug you grab is also suspect. The rest of the pitch has lots of loose or breakable rock that you don't want to touch. This made for some interesting problem solving across a beautiful position... and despite all I just said I really enjoyed it.
    By Julius Beres
    From: Boulder, CO
    Oct 23, 2016
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    Lead P2. Other pitches are mellow, but after Levin's new guidebook downgraded this to 9+ I was surprised. I thought the move on 2 was harder than at least a dozen 10b/c routes I can think of... it is kind of desperate move to a flexing flake that will likely break off eventually. If you are short, the feet aren't good, and while it protects well, the gear is strenuous to place. I can think of plenty of 10s easier than this, so to downgrade this to 9 is a total sandbag.

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