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McMartin Cliff
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Gin and Juice 

Gin and Juice 

WI4 M5

Type:  Mixed, Ice, 130'
Original: WI4 M5 [details]
FA: 12/19/10: Jim Lawyer, Martin Von Arx
Page Views: 292
Submitted By: Jim Lawyer on Mar 1, 2013

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Gin and Juice, McMartin Cliff.


Super excellent line with adequate protection. The route bakes off later in the season and will be completely devoid of ice.

P1 M5 WI4: Go up the shallow chimney (runout, but not hard) to a roof. Around this on the left to a second roof. Go left 6' and enter a squeeze chimney. Exhale and squirm up the bowels of the mountain with increasing tightness to the top. 130'

Descent: Rappel from trees 20' right, 110' to ground.


Begin 70' left and downhill from the height of land below a shallow chimney that runs the full height of the cliff.


Rock gear to 3", maybe a couple screws too.

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