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Gin & Juice 
No Bedlam 
Pedal Extension 

Gin & Juice 

Hueco: V9 Font: 7C

   
Type:  Boulder, 10'
Original:  Hueco: V9 Font: 7C [details]
FA: Joel Torretti, 2004
Page Views: 286
Submitted By: skinny legs and all on Jan 31, 2014

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Description 

Gin & Juice is in my opinion the best hard problem at Governor Stables. It is also one of the best problems at any diabase area in Pennsylvania, including Mount Gretna and Haycock. I think it is one of the top five V9's in Pennsylvania, encompassing all rock types and styles.

Begin this challenging problem on the right side of the 45 degree overhang on a good underclings with smears for the feet. Bust the right hand up to a flat hold that is exactly vertical just to stall on it, finagle the left hand into the best part of the undercling starting handhold, and then slap the right hand again to the sloping lip. Toe hook so you can release the left hand and attain the lip. These are very powerful moves. Keeping the feet tight so you don't dab on the ground that parallels the overhang is difficult.

Now the real fun starts. Heel hook with the right leg, and figure out how to mantel the extremely sloping lip. The mantel is the crux alone and is at least V8 or even V9. You will need some serious strength and skill to get on top of this boulder. Prepare to scrape the inside of your right ankle, perhaps many times. This mantel is far more difficult than the crux mantel on Two Pop (V9, initially rated V10) at Lost Cove, in Boone, North Carolina. In fact, it is the most difficult mantel I have ever encountered outside of Pawtuckaway, New Hampshire and Little Cottonwood Canyon, Utah; and those were rated V10 and V11. Many folks will feel sandbagged by the grade. To add insult to injury, I think Dr. Torretti thought the problem in it's entirety was about V8! Good hip flexibility will be a boon on this mantel.

Pull, press and rock over onto the flat top. This is a full on mantel. Congratulations, you have just sent the best hard problem at Governor Stables... The name comes from Joel and his wife Jennifer sipping Gin and Juice on the day of his first ascent, like the gangster he is. His day job is merely an orthopedic spinal surgeon.

Location 

Gin & Juice it the right problem on the Pedal boulder. Start from underclings, climb out the short 45 degree overhang to the sloping lip and then mantel.

Protection 

One or two pads. A spotter is not really necessary. Companions will help with the motivation necessary to keep working the problem through the inevitable initial failure and frustration.


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