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Mt. Quadra
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Gimme Shelter T 

Gimme Shelter 

WI6-7 R

   
Type:  Trad, Ice, 6 pitches, 1000', Grade VI
Original: WI6-7 R [details]
FA: Kevin Doyle, Tim Friesen. April, 1983
Page Views: 478
Submitted By: Dave Rone on Mar 24, 2016

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first ascent- rapping off thicker ice after compl...

Description 

This spectacular line was, as the Josephson guide says, "climbed way ahead of its time." And even today with modern equipment, it is a serious undertaking. The climbing is difficult and sustained, it doesn't let up. Furthermore, it is difficult to evaluate the route beforehand, althoughthe upper half can be seen from lot #3 at the Lake Louise ski area. There is avalanche hazard on the approach slopes, but undoubtedly the biggest hazard is ice and serac fall from the glacier on top. One is most exposed to serac fall on the approach slopes and on the snow benches.

The route will usually be climbed in 6 pitches, 70 m ropes are recommended. If the route is in fatter conditions, everything about the route will be easier, but when it's thin, good screws can be hard to find, anchors harder to build, and the hanging curtains will be much more difficult to climb and protect.

Location 

Gimme Shelter is on the northeast face of Mt. Quadra, located at the south end of Consolation Lakes. It is approximately a 12 mile ski (4-6 hrs) from the parking area at the start of the Moraine Lake road to the base of the route.

Exit Hwy 1 at Lake Louise, and drive west toward the lake, and park at the Moraine Lake road (closed in winter) turnoff. Ski the road to Moraine Lake, all but the last two miles of which is groomed. Then ski the hiking trail to Consolation Lakes and bivy. Get an early start in the morning, climbing the route and then skiing out will be a long day!

Protection 

Take a good selection of screws, particularly 10, and 13 cm. Have enough to build anchors and protect the pitch, there is no fixed pro or anchors. Possible some knifeblades and stoppers will be helpfull, although Jon and I didn't use any. Rappel from v-threads, 5 rappels with 70 m ropes.


Photos of Gimme Shelter Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: first ascent - Tim Friesen pitch 1
first ascent - Tim Friesen pitch 1
Rock Climbing Photo: First ascent- Tim Friesen leading.
First ascent- Tim Friesen leading.
Rock Climbing Photo: Gimme Shelter in WI7- condition.
BETA PHOTO: Gimme Shelter in WI7- condition.
Rock Climbing Photo: First ascent- view
First ascent- view
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting P2. Photo: Jon Jugenheimer.
Starting P2. Photo: Jon Jugenheimer.
Rock Climbing Photo: Glacier at the top of the route.
BETA PHOTO: Glacier at the top of the route.
Rock Climbing Photo: Thin, fragile curtain P4. Photo: Jon Jugenheimer.
Thin, fragile curtain P4. Photo: Jon Jugenheimer.
Rock Climbing Photo: Top of P3.
Top of P3.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jon Jugenheimer on thin 'crapola' ice, P1.
Jon Jugenheimer on thin 'crapola' ice, P1.
Rock Climbing Photo: View from bivy at north end of Consolation Lakes. ...
BETA PHOTO: View from bivy at north end of Consolation Lakes. ...
Rock Climbing Photo: First view of entire route from Moraine Lake road.
BETA PHOTO: First view of entire route from Moraine Lake road.

Comments on Gimme Shelter Add Comment
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By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Mar 25, 2016

Nice work Dave and Jon. You have made the Midwest climber scene very proud! Way to get the hell after it...

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