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Gimme Shelter 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 400', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bernard Gillett
Page Views: 215
Submitted By: Dylan Cousins on Sep 28, 2015

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This is a route that parallels the upper pitches of Refugium. Where Refugium climbs the splitters on the face of a prominent prow of rock, Gimme Shelter takes the right hand side of the block that forms the prow. A non-descript pitch of 5.8ish leads to a ledge below a headwall with a curving, then straight up crack. Gimme Shelter climbs this amazing crack. There is a fixed wire at the start that will ease the strenuousness of the initial boulder problem to get into the crack.

This is a short route for such a long walk, but like other routes on Arrowhead, the headwall splitter pitch is amazing (like Airhead and Arrowplane). This one is shorter than on those routes but is still quite good.


Standard rack.

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