Gimme 3 Steps
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The start of the crux.
This route is located just left of Cold Shot on Higher Security, up the hill a bit from Crash Test Blondes. It goes up three distinct tiers or "steps".
Start on the prow at the left edge of the wall, climbing past some small bushes (5.7/5.8) to a ledge. Follow the obvious thin cracks up to the next ledge (5.10c)... nuts and smaller camming devices can protect this section well.
From this last ledge, clip the bolt out right and move up into the shallow, left-facing corner (crux). A few feet of sustained side-pulling, liebacking, and thin footwork will get you to the second bolt. The climbing is still a bit pumpy from there but eases up considerably. A small or medium cam in a horizontal can protect the climbing above the last bolt. Rap about 60 feet to the ground from a 2-bolt anchor.
2 bolts protect the crux section well, although nuts and small to medium camming devices are recommended for sections both above and below the crux.
By Tom Hayes
Jun 11, 2006
In December I replaced the bolts (including the anchors) on this route after Steve and I put up Evolution. Should feel better now without those 5/16" shorties. This route is pretty stiff and contains a lot of variety. Enjoy.