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Gilman Tunnels

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Gilman Tunnels Rock Climbing 

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Elevation: 6,247'
Location: 35.7358, -106.764 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 25,033
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Aug 7, 2006
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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The Gilman Tunnels Area. The first Tunnel is visi...


Boasting some of New Mexico's best granite sport climbing, this area is a sharp contrast to the red and brown color surrounding it. Short approaches, less than vertical to vertical rock, and mostly single pitch sport climbs. However, there are some trad lines here and a few multi-pitch climbs. The rock quality varies, and some can be quite loose. A helmet here is not a bad idea.

Because of the shape of the valley here, summertime temperatures can be hot! Mornings are nice on the west facing walls. During the afternoon one can jump in the river to cool off, then climb on the east facing walls later during the afternoon. In the spring the river can be roaring and crossing it to climb on the east side could be cold/scary.

This area is relatively new and most climbs still have not seen many ascents. Gilman can be accessed throughout the year and has no restrictions for access.

Getting There 

Follow the directions to the Jemez Valley Area, and from San Ysidro, drive 8.8 miles on highway 4. After the Jemez Valley School, and a big dip in the road followed by a gradual turn to the right, look for SR 485 to the left (AKA FR 379 after it turns to dirt). After taking this left turn follow the road past Canones, continuing up the road until the road disappears into tunnels through the rock. Drive through both tunnels and park anywhere there is a pull-out.

Climbing Season

Weather station 5.4 miles from here

46 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',23],['2 Stars',18],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Gilman Tunnels

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Gilman Tunnels:
Sierra Corazon   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Sport, 1 pitch, 105'   Second Tunnel
Entrapment   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 60'   The Broken Arrows : Left Arrow
Moist Hoist   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 2 pitches, 200'   Spectator Wall
Cyber Crime   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   The Broken Arrows : Left Arrow
Vicarious Living   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 2 pitches, 210'   Spectator Wall
Big Brother   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 80'   The Broken Arrows : Left Arrow
Under Siege   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   The Broken Arrows : Right Arrow
Ecksteinator   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 60'   The Broken Arrows : Right Arrow
Dough Boy   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 30'   The Broken Arrows : Perp Area
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Gilman Tunnels

Featured Route For Gilman Tunnels
Rock Climbing Photo: Cruising the fun upper headwall of "Under Sie...

Under Siege 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a  New Mexico : Jemez Valley Area : ... : Right Arrow
More excellent thin face climbing with small crimps and sidepulls on slightly less-than-vertical granite. Similar in character to Happy Feet, this line begins with difficult, strenuous face moves with a crux between the 1st and 3rd bolt. Higher, a relatively easy lip encounter leads to more 5.10 face climbing to the anchors....[more]   Browse More Classics in New Mexico

Comments on Gilman Tunnels Add Comment
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By George Perkins
From: The Dungeon, NM
Apr 20, 2017
Gilman Tunnels to Close Temporarily to Mitigate Rockfall Hazards

SANTA FE, NM – April 19, 2017 – For Immediate Release. The Santa Fe National Forest (SFNF) today announced that a half-mile segment of the road that passes through the Gilman Tunnels on the Jemez Ranger District will be closed to traffic to allow crews to remove loose rock and stabilize the rock cliffs around the tunnels.

“We apologize in advance for any inconvenience caused by our work on the Gilman Tunnels. But public safety is our primary concern, and we want to mitigate the potential danger from falling rock as soon as possible,” Jemez District Ranger Brian Riley said.

Forest Road (FR) 376 will be closed from mile marker 5.0 approximately one mile north of the community of Gilman to mile marker 5.5 just north of the tunnels. Engineers expect the work, which could begin as early as May 1, 2017, to take no more than 45 days to complete. The SFNF will issue a closure order soon.

Recreation sites and grazing allotments on FR 376 will remain accessible from NM Highway 126.

The section of FR 376 at the tunnels runs through the Guadalupe Box Canyon, giving visitors a scenic view of the Guadalupe River surging between red rock cliffs. The Gilman Tunnels were blasted out of the rock in the 1920s to provide logging and mining companies access to the railroad. More recently, the tunnels have provided a backdrop for several Hollywood productions, including “3:10 to Yuma.”

For additional information on the Gilman Tunnels project, contact the Jemez Ranger District at 575.829.3535.
By George Perkins
From: The Dungeon, NM
Jul 27, 2007
Warning: the bolt counts listed in Jemez Rock and RC NM for many routes in this area are incorrect. Often you'll need more quickdraws. I haven't climbed here much (so this is not a complete list), but in 2 days of climbing here, I've found discrepancies on the following climbs (numbers from Jemez Rock): #1,#2, #6, #7, #16, #17, #22, #23.
By Christian Garland
From: Talala, OK
Dec 28, 2010
I just watched the movie Gamer with Gerard Butler and in the last 5 seconds of the movie you see them driving on a road with tunnels....its Gilman Tunnels! Check it out next time you see the movie.
By Monomaniac
From: Morrison, CO
Dec 28, 2010
If you like that, check out "3:10 to Yuma" with Russel Crowe & Christian Bale. There's a 10-minute sequence involving the Tunnels, plus many more NM areas such as Diablo Canyon....
By Kim Romero-Oak
Jun 24, 2012
I was at Gilman today looking at Soylent Green and saw a route just to the left of it that was not in the guide book Jemez Rock. Anybody know the name and grade of the climb?

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