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Gilman Tunnels

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Gilman Tunnels Rock Climbing 

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Elevation: 6,247'
Location: 35.7358, -106.764 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 26,296
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Aug 7, 2006
This Afternoon

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Best climbs for YOU in this area
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The Gilman Tunnels Area. The first Tunnel is visi...


Boasting some of New Mexico's best granite sport climbing, this area is a sharp contrast to the red and brown color surrounding it. Short approaches, less than vertical to vertical rock, and mostly single pitch sport climbs. However, there are some trad lines here and a few multi-pitch climbs. The rock quality varies, and some can be quite loose. A helmet here is not a bad idea.

Because of the shape of the valley here, summertime temperatures can be hot! Mornings are nice on the west facing walls. During the afternoon one can jump in the river to cool off, then climb on the east facing walls later during the afternoon. In the spring the river can be roaring and crossing it to climb on the east side could be cold/scary.

This area is relatively new and most climbs still have not seen many ascents. Gilman can be accessed throughout the year and has no restrictions for access.

Getting There 

Follow the directions to the Jemez Valley Area, and from San Ysidro, drive 8.8 miles on highway 4. After the Jemez Valley School, and a big dip in the road followed by a gradual turn to the right, look for SR 485 to the left (AKA FR 379 after it turns to dirt). After taking this left turn follow the road past Canones, continuing up the road until the road disappears into tunnels through the rock. Drive through both tunnels and park anywhere there is a pull-out.

Climbing Season

Weather station 5.4 miles from here

46 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',23],['2 Stars',18],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Gilman Tunnels

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Gilman Tunnels:
Sierra Corazon   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Sport, 1 pitch, 105'   Second Tunnel
Entrapment   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 60'   The Broken Arrows : Left Arrow
Moist Hoist   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 2 pitches, 200'   Spectator Wall
Cyber Crime   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   The Broken Arrows : Left Arrow
Vicarious Living   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 2 pitches, 210'   Spectator Wall
Big Brother   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 80'   The Broken Arrows : Left Arrow
Under Siege   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   The Broken Arrows : Right Arrow
Ecksteinator   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 60'   The Broken Arrows : Right Arrow
Dough Boy   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 30'   The Broken Arrows : Perp Area
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Gilman Tunnels

Featured Route For Gilman Tunnels
Rock Climbing Photo: High on the upper slab of Hostile Takeover.

Hostile Takeover 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a  New Mexico : Jemez Mountains and Jemez V... : ... : Right Arrow
This is the premier route at Gilman. With perfect stone, technical, engaging moves, and a stunning, natural line that goes on forever, this one has it all. Begin on the blank-looking slab just right of the Old Punks on Crack dihedral. Shoot straight up the smooth slab past 3 bolts of heinous, technical face climbing to a ramp-like pod that offers a brief rest. Move up to the lip of the bulge with the help of some nice jugs. An intense rock-over crux surmounts the lip of the bulge, where endless ...[more]   Browse More Classics in New Mexico

Comments on Gilman Tunnels Add Comment
Show which comments
By Kevin Bond
From: Santa Fe, NM
Jun 15, 2017
Update on Gilman tunnels construction. I went by yesterday on a drive through Jemez with the hope that the road may be open...

The road is closed about 1.4 miles before the tunnels and the signs posted says that the construction will be going on til

By George Perkins
From: The Dungeon, NM
5 days ago
Gilman Tunnels has reopened. Use caution and good judgment on the climbs on the road side, looks as though the construction team did some "cleaning".
By George Perkins
From: The Dungeon, NM
Jul 27, 2007
Warning: the bolt counts listed in Jemez Rock and RC NM for many routes in this area are incorrect. Often you'll need more quickdraws. I haven't climbed here much (so this is not a complete list), but in 2 days of climbing here, I've found discrepancies on the following climbs (numbers from Jemez Rock): #1,#2, #6, #7, #16, #17, #22, #23.
By Christian Garland
From: Talala, OK
Dec 28, 2010
I just watched the movie Gamer with Gerard Butler and in the last 5 seconds of the movie you see them driving on a road with tunnels....its Gilman Tunnels! Check it out next time you see the movie.
By Monomaniac
From: Morrison, CO
Dec 28, 2010
If you like that, check out "3:10 to Yuma" with Russel Crowe & Christian Bale. There's a 10-minute sequence involving the Tunnels, plus many more NM areas such as Diablo Canyon....
By Kim Romero-Oak
Jun 24, 2012
I was at Gilman today looking at Soylent Green and saw a route just to the left of it that was not in the guide book Jemez Rock. Anybody know the name and grade of the climb?

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