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Gill's Buttress
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Gill's Nose 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: John Gill, First Lead: Tommy Deutchler
Page Views: 5,662
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Jan 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (37)
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Slapping the arete on Gill's - Photo by: Scott Van...

Description 

Gill climbed it first, but a foothold broke shortly thereafter. Locate the slab between Brinton's and Gill's Buttresses--the route climbs the prominent nose to the right of the slab. A classic Devil's Lake hard route.

At the crux, the original line goes left to a big flat jug and clocks in at 11b. However, the more direct finish (keeping your right hand on or near the corner) certainly requires an 11c effort.

Protection 

Toprope


Photos of Gill's Nose Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Devils lake. Topping out on Gills Nose. Photo Isaa...
Devils lake. Topping out on Gills Nose. Photo Isaa...
Rock Climbing Photo: Devils Lake. Crux of Gill's Nose. Paul Wagener bel...
Devils Lake. Crux of Gill's Nose. Paul Wagener bel...
Rock Climbing Photo: Stew powering through the intense cold - DL Hardco...
Stew powering through the intense cold - DL Hardco...
Rock Climbing Photo: Devils Lake. Gills Nose, the unprotected lower sec...
Devils Lake. Gills Nose, the unprotected lower sec...
Rock Climbing Photo: Almost through the crux - Photo: Scott Van Den Heu...
Almost through the crux - Photo: Scott Van Den Heu...
Rock Climbing Photo: Scott Stewert and Pete Cleveland showing their bes...
Scott Stewert and Pete Cleveland showing their bes...
Rock Climbing Photo: Gill's Buttress
BETA PHOTO: Gill's Buttress
Rock Climbing Photo: Appropriate DL footwork
Appropriate DL footwork
Rock Climbing Photo: Goran, on the go before the send!
Goran, on the go before the send!
Rock Climbing Photo: Stew looking miserable - DL Hardcore 1-16-2010
Stew looking miserable - DL Hardcore 1-16-2010
Rock Climbing Photo: Beginning the crux of Gill's - Photo: Scott Van De...
Beginning the crux of Gill's - Photo: Scott Van De...
Rock Climbing Photo: Low on Gill's - Photo: Scott Van Den Heuvel
Low on Gill's - Photo: Scott Van Den Heuvel
Rock Climbing Photo: "Crazy" Tommy Deutchler attempting Gill'...
"Crazy" Tommy Deutchler attempting Gill'...

Comments on Gill's Nose Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 19, 2017
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Apr 22, 2002

Are you sure Gill did the FA of Gill's Nose. I think it was Roger Weigand, probably with Pete Cleveland. At least I recall him telling me he did.

I've been known to be wrong.
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Apr 23, 2002

According to the Climber and Hiker's Guidebook (1970), Gill did it first, but a foothold broke. Maybe Roger Weigand did the first "foothold-less" ascent.
By Dave Bohn aka "Old Fart"
May 3, 2002

I thought you might like to see a few "In the Day" photo's. When I took these in '72-'73 I don't think the route had been repeated yet. We used to gather here in the afternoon to give a few tries and the pictures are of Pete Cleveland and Scott Steward discussing the moves and a picture of "Crazy" Tom Deutchler on a TR attempt.
By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
May 12, 2002

the proud first lead of GILL'S NOSE was by Tommy Deutchler
By Anonymous Coward
Apr 15, 2003

Is that a boeline on a coil?
By Tom Anderson-Brown
From: Madison, WI
Apr 16, 2003

If you're talking about Tommy D's tie-in, I think that's called a swami belt.
By James Schroeder
Administrator
From: Sauk County, WI
Nov 26, 2006
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Jay-

Correct me if I'm wrong but isn't the 11b "variation" the original line, and the 11c actually a more direct variation of that line?
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Nov 28, 2006

James, I think you are right that the indirect finish is the original line and the direct, harder finish was added later.

Does anyone know if Tommy Deutchler led the direct variation or if he went out left to the jug?
By Tradiban
Mar 5, 2009

I'm still confused on which line is Gills Nose Lead. When I've top roped it in the past I've always gone straight up, not to the ledge jug on the left, (isn't that "Gills Cheek" or something?) but also I haven't used the arete. First off what's harder? Second, what's the original line? The Arete is the end of Peyote Blues correct?

Krys, Huston, on the lead did you go left or straight? Looks left in the photos. I've found straight up to be a little longer in moves but the way I do that little traverse to the jug left felt really insecure, which of course is fine on TR but on lead I think I prefer staying right and more "secure".

The gear that I got in was 100% though.

Ah, fuck it, I'm splitting hairs, I'm going to go for straight up.
By Kris Gorny
Administrator
Mar 10, 2009
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X

Hey Nick,
I think going to the jug left is the original line put up by Gill. I believe I did it the way Jason H had (from looking at his pics). Dave Groth showed me the way you are describing. Going on the arete is a harder variation which has a possible ground fall from the crux. I dropped a pack from it a month ago (Jason H was there too) and it stopped just above the ground but there was almost no rope stretch so any fall there wouldn't be pleasant.
By Tradiban
Mar 12, 2009

Ok, so we will need the patented Vince Evans running be-lay.
By RobbHawkinson
From: Chicago
Aug 17, 2017

Sorry to report that a left foot chip about the size of a cassette tape broke off while I climbed this on Tuesday (8/17/17). It was around what I perceived to be the crux move, and I think it makes the move a little harder. I'm curious to hear what people think.
By Tradiban
Aug 18, 2017

Robb, whereabouts was the foot?
By jon jugenheimer
Administrator
From: Madison
Aug 18, 2017

So many left feet on the route, have a pic to show us where something broke? Also, a bit hard to believe on that route of features breaking...that rock is bulleit!
By RobbHawkinson
From: Chicago
Aug 19, 2017

Yeah, I was really surprised when it slid off. The foot chip that fell off is where Kris' left foot is in the picture titled: "Devils Lake. Crux of Gill's Nose. Paul Wagener belaying (Thanks, Paul!). Photo: Isaac Therneau. October '08."

Picture
By James Schroeder
Administrator
From: Sauk County, WI
Aug 19, 2017
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

I checked it out last night; the foothold breaking does not materially affect the difficulty of the route. Most folks probably won't even notice.

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