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Keyhole Cliff area
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Clune Crank 
Cronin Face 
Dr V 
Gill Crack (AKA The Brat Gill Variation) 
Gill Egg (AKA Gill’s Route), The 
Gill Pinch Roof 
Keyhole Crack Left 
Keyhole Crack Right 
Keyhole Offwidth 
Larsen's Problem 
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Winter's Agony 
Unsorted Routes:

Gill Pinch Roof 

Hueco: V4 Font: 6B

Type:  Boulder, 15'
Original:  Hueco: V4 Font: 6B [details]
FA: John Gill?
Page Views: 3,995
Submitted By: Anthony Baraff on Aug 8, 2009

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the double pinches


Just to the right of the face with the Keyhole crack problems there is a small covered alcove with a crack running up and right in the back to where it meets a horizontal crack below a low roof. There are two overlapping problems: the Gill Pinch Roof, and Larsen's Problem.

For Gill Pinch, start with your hands in the crack, and reach out to the two black stained pinches at the left lip of the roof (don’t use the left wall of the alcove, it is off). Use the higher pinch to reach the good handhold and undercling two feet above the lip. Get your feet up and reach way right. Shift your weight and work up to the horizontal 7 feet above the left. Traverse off right in order to descend.

Is there a move on this problem that isn’t completely incredible? A very satisfying send, and when you’re done, get on Dirty White Boys and Puerto Ricans which starts at the same spot.


Just around the corner past the face with the Keyhole crack problems.


A pad, maybe a spotter too. Be careful as you traverse off right.

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Rock Climbing Photo: Micah, past the business and headed for the face w...
Micah, past the business and headed for the face w...

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