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Gilgamek Vagina 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Chad Watkins, 2002
Page Views: 1,428
Submitted By: Erik Pohlman on Sep 1, 2008

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Flared chimney diminishing at small roof. Move left and face climb to anchors.


Very right end of the Confederate Cracks. Starts in sunken area, left of Nova Monkey roof.


Gear to 3 inches, mostly small stuff if I remember right. 2 bolt anchor.

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By CalebSimpson
May 25, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This route is awkward fun! Loved it, I give it 5 stars! My first 5.9 trad lead too. It was the only dry route we could find on an extremely rainy day. If you are looking for a rainy day climb this is it. It stays dry in a torrential down pour.

I place small stuff up to a #5 BD cam. Probably could have done without the #5, I sewed it up pretty good, but #4's are definitely needed.
By artem Vasilyev
Mar 17, 2014

The guidebook lists this route as 5.8 and I would have to agree, maybe 5.8+. Loved this route for the fun stemming involved, the gear is super good and can be protected entirely with nuts if need be. I used mainly 2's, a 1, a .5, and probably 4 bomber nut placements.

Dont back off because you see the 5.9 rating on mountainproject, this is a must do for the new leader. Also give the 5.11d roof directly to the right a try, the permadraws make it highly accessible!
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of the route, dont bring the 3's like I did!
Start of the route, dont bring the 3's like I did!

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