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Gigglenut Rampage 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 500', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13 [details]
FA: an ascent by DCuster & SRuff, Jan 2015
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 192
Submitted By: dave custer on Jan 13, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Gigglenut Rampage Topo; perhaps this shares a star...

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Thought provoking climbing, finishing at the Geronimo summit block.

P1 Climb the pleasant, black, left side of the slot to easier ground and continue up yet another, narrower slot in black rock. Belay on a spacious sandstone ledge below a blocky chockstone in the next slot. 5.6, a short pitch, ~30 meters.
P2 Climb up past the blocky chockstone, place gear (yellow camalotish), consider your fate, and step left onto the black, varnished ramp. Tiptoe up the ramp; choose between the utility of tiny nuts and reprieve from burning calves. After about 1/3 of the ramp, a move gains some calf reprieve and a green alien placement. More gear and more calf pain gains the top of the Senior Discount pillar & perhaps a double rope rappel (25 foot sling around block?). 5.9, another short pitch, ~30+meters. The anchor at the top of Senior Discount takes .3-.75 Camalot Jrs.
P3 Make a move to gain the thin crack/corner system on the right. At the top of the corner, step left and weave up steep huecos and flakes. At a long, nearly horizontal crack in good, black rock, head back right to the poorly defined arête. Up easier climbing for a long ways with rare gear placements in pink rock near or left of the blunt arête, eventually finding ample enough gear to construct an anchor. 5.9, 60 meters; the anchor takes yellow camalot +/-.
P4 Up and right onto the face right of the arête, angle up and right into a crack system/variation of Geronimo. 5.5, a short pitch, ~30 meters.
P5 An exposed step right gains the face on the right and then Geronimo’s summit rap station. 5.5, a very short pitch, <30 meters.

Location 

On the right side of the wide gully between Geronimo and Mr Z, start well below and right of the Senior Discount pillar at a black slot that is just left of a rounded hobbit alcove just off the ground.

Protection 

Standard rack to #4 Camalot. Tiny nuts, purple & blue (0 & 1) metolius and green alien handy for the ramp. Nuts more than ordinarily useful for P3.


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