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YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 171
Submitted By: Jay Eggleston on May 8, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: The rope is attached to the anchor and the person ...

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  • Description 

    This is a fun route but not one of the best at the wall. The crux is just above the first bolt moving from a lieback flake to higher rock above. The second bolt is hard to clip, and the whole route may be a bit harder now than the rating as a small foot hold, used by the leader, broke under the weight of the second. Above, the route goes up a shallow crack. We placed a piece near the top.

    It is a good idea to build a belay anchor at the start which can be done with medium-sized cams.


    This route is between Same As It Ever Was and Quagmire (which is not listed on this site). The next route listed here, to the right, is The Throttle. The start is from a ledge at the top of a hard 4th class, easy 5th class gully/ramp. You can get down using the bolt anchor at the top, and you can descend all the way to the bottom of the approach gully on rappel.


    6 bolts and a small piece of gear. We used a 0.5 Tri Cam. Bob D'Antonio says to bring a 3.5 inch cam, but we saw no place for it. Small cams would work well. There is a 2 bolt anchor at the top.

    Photos of Giggity-Giggity Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Just above the crux at the start, by the unseen 2n...
    Just above the crux at the start, by the unseen 2n...

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    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    May 6, 2017
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

    So... where is "Quagmire?"
    I tried pretty much everything on that wall. Seems to me that the only thing available for the 5.9 designation is this or at least in part this line.
    I do note that D'Antonio fails to differentiate or place either of these routes, but for to say that this one is 10c (actually about 10b though) and Quagmire is 5.9+, which as we know is harder than 10a... which means about 10b again...and there is good gear for most of this route, absent any bolts.

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