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YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
Page Views: 112
Submitted By: Kemper Brightman on Sep 19, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: Lower Gidrah, Slabby dirty bolts to the left of le...


Just like Godzilla's foe by the same name, this beast has three "heads". Begin in the dihedral right of Summertime Arete. Stick clip first bolt and climb the face (5.10a) or use the crack (5.7). After the 6th or 7th bolt there are three ways to finish. For the middle or right head, down climb a bit and unclip the last bolt on the "torso" after you clip the first bolt on the "neck" to prevent rope drag. Left head (5.10b, 11 bolts): Continue straight up on a slab on the left side of the crack/chimney system and crimp up a steep rounded arete to a ledge with cold shuts. Middle head (5.9, 15 bolts): From friction slab above ledge, step right across a wide dirt-filled crack and climb a steep but juggy face to chain anchors at the top of the cliff. Right head: (5.9, 15 bolts) From ledge with chains for Summertime Arete step right across crack to steep knobby face. Climb straight up to chains at the top of the cliff.


Bolts to Chains

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By L. Hamilton
Jul 27, 2014

As of 7/22/2014 the chains and hangers are missing from anchor bolts on the right head of Gidrah. There are hangers but no chains on the middle head; we left a couple of slings to rap off.
By Mike Zasadzien
May 11, 2015

Can Confirm on L. Hamilton. Hangers removed from top of Right Head. And if you look to the right towards The Final Shred, you'll notice those bolt hangers are removed as well. There *might* be hangers on the other two routes of Gidrah, but can't confirm... [although in hindsight, it's possible I rapped off the middle head, see the below]

Beyond the abundant items to sling at the the top [i.e. massive boulder, perhaps the big dead tree stump if you don't like massive boulders], there is actually a set of rap hangers on top of the cliff 5 feet just to your left as you top-out[around a jutting out rock]. You can access them from above, however, no rap chains. We built an anchor to attach to, stepped off, and made our rappel with no issues. 5.10.15

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