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Gidget (Meets the Turgid Seamonster) 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b PG13 [details]
FA: Jim Thornburg, 1980s
Page Views: 278
Submitted By: Ian J Walters on Nov 12, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

Gidget shares the first and last bolts of Motion in the Ocean, taking the right bolt line. After a mild (though somewhat runout) beginning, find a great midway rest below a bulge. After this, a strenuous clip and powerful off-balance sequence lead straight into the final crux of Motion. On the whole a fantastic route that is significantly more demanding than Motion, and tons of fun!!

Location 

On the ocean side of the main rock, just to the right of Motion in the Ocean.

Protection 

5 u-bolts to two-bolt anchor.


Comments on Gidget (Meets the Turgid Seamonster) Add Comment
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By Vlad S
Nov 23, 2015
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

The bolting on this route is very confusing complicated by the squeeze variation on the left (Ocean Monster). I ended up using 6 bolts. 3rd one being almost right next to and directly right of the 2nd one (which is probably not original), strangely followed by a small runout. Then at the crux below the roof you can clip 5th bolt either to your left or right. Jimi originally climbed it going right, but for my height I found going left more logical. It seems to me (in retrospect) that having a single bolt in between (and instead of) the two would have protected the moves really well no matter what beta you choose. In the end there is only one hold that is not used for either sequence, so it's more of a personal preference rather than a different variation.
By jimi thornburg
Dec 15, 2015

Vlad! Go straight up dude!

The crux on this is hard and initially befuddling. But it's a really cool move and its easier than going left onto the other route, and then back onto Gidget.. The bolts will all make sense if you just go straight up. I wish the route to the left was left as a top-rope. It's fun too, but for sure it causes some confusion now that it's bolted.
By Vlad S
Dec 15, 2015
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

Jimi, I agree - it would have been better to leave the left variation as a TR. The bolting is mostly confusing down low. At the crux it feels more like a personal preference which way to go and which of the two bolts to clip. Going left is hard because you have to get a very high left foot from small holds that are both facing left (most of your weight is on the left foot). Going right I get the R hand gastone that is big and featureless, but then stall out because I'm completely extended and can't move. I can see it being easier if you are taller, but not for me...

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