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Gibraltar Rock

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1 - Brokedown Palace 
2 - North Wall 
3 - Amphitheater 
4 - Party Hole, Rhombus Head, East Wall 
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Nearby Mountain Bike Rides

Holy Schist
The name speaks for itself. A long section of difficult trail with little respite until the end. Near Barneveld, Wisconsin
Mound Loop (long)
The long Mound Loop contains some of the most technical singletrack that Wisconsin has to offer. Near Barneveld, Wisconsin
Over Lode Loop (short)
This ride features Over Lode and the short Mound Loop for a good mix of intermediate singletrack. Near Barneveld, Wisconsin
Mound Loop (short)
The short Mound Loop omits Holy Schist and Home Stretch but adds Basalty Bail. Near Barneveld, Wisconsin
Over Lode Loop (long)
Not for the faint of heart or body, this loop will challenge even the more experienced riders. Near Barneveld, Wisconsin
Pleasant View Trail Full Loop
A full loop of Pleasant View Trail System, there and back with the Mulligan Loop and Slice included. Near Middleton, Wisconsin
From MP's sister site:

Gibraltar Rock Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 1,193'
Location: 43.34288, -89.60041 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 6,167
Administrators: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Doug Hemken on Jun 8, 2004
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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This area is currently closed to climbing...

Wiegand's guide

Landmann's guide - the current beta

Climbing Season

For the All Locations area.

Weather station 4.0 miles from here

1 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Gibraltar Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Gibraltar Rock:
Locomotive   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 180'   2 - North Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Gibraltar Rock

Featured Route For Gibraltar Rock

Locomotive 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  Wisconsin : Gibraltar Rock : 2 - North Wall
A very consistant mixed pro climb. It is long and requires the whole array of climbing techniques (layback, jams, mantling, undercling, ect.) So much fun, it's too bad that atthis time the area remains closed after over 5 years of discussion over the future of the park. There are talks about the possible transfer ofthe park to DNS, however, it looks as if the potential owners are no more favorable to climbers than the previous.The best thing to do is to refrain from using the area for climbing. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in Wisconsin

Photos of Gibraltar Rock Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down on 3 or 4 sport routes on the east si...
BETA PHOTO: Looking down on 3 or 4 sport routes on the east si...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down on the top of a sport route climbers ...
BETA PHOTO: Looking down on the top of a sport route climbers ...
Rock Climbing Photo: West wall of the Amphitheater
West wall of the Amphitheater
Rock Climbing Photo: Gibralter's Winter Face
Gibralter's Winter Face
Rock Climbing Photo: Gibralter from Crisler Rd.
Gibralter from Crisler Rd.
Rock Climbing Photo: Winter @ Gibralter
Winter @ Gibralter
Rock Climbing Photo: The garbage we picked up at the end of the ceremon...
The garbage we picked up at the end of the ceremon...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Mother Bear dihedral. I'm told this was one of...
The Mother Bear dihedral. I'm told this was one of...

Comments on Gibraltar Rock Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 17, 2017
By Kurt Johnson
From: Estes Park, CO
Nov 24, 2007
Over 20 years ago, when I was a Boy Scout, our troop would stay at a house near the base (owned by the Scoutmaster's parents?) which had a perfect view of the main face. One winter morning 4 or 5 of us hiked over to it and scrambled up what seemed like the center of the cliff, scaling fairly steep sections of verglased rock, just barely hanging on. Miraculously, not one of us slipped, either because of sheer luck, or because it wasn't nearly as steep as it felt to a bunch of non-climbers - or both. At the time it felt like a do-or-die scenario; downclimbing was out of the question and we had no idea what lay ahead. Had I known about the North Face of the Eiger back then, I would have thought I was on it. When we topped out we felt like badasses, though a little shaken and happy to be alive. That's one of those formative moments in one's early climbing career that either kills you or makes you stronger; that either adds to your resume or makes you a statistic. Fortunately for me it was the latter, and an experience I'll always look back upon with fondness.
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
May 16, 2008
Lets get a petition going and get this place back in the hands of the climbers of WI. We have nothing like this anywhere else in WI.

I have no idea who or where to send the petition, or what exactly to write, but all together we have to be able to come up with something convincing. So please, contact me with any thoughts, info, and signatures. I will put together the whole thing, just help me get started guys/gals.

Climb on!

small update: Here is where I am going to send the petition

Richard Evans and his phone number is: 608-356-8301

Hopefully he will be able to help.
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
May 19, 2008
Apparently the DNR got ownership of Gibralter in 2007.

So please help us out and get this petition going.
By Jay Knower
From: Campton, NH
May 19, 2008
You can add my name.
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
May 20, 2008
Thx Jay. So far that makes 5 of us.

Here is a link to view the petition. Please feel free to make suggestions on verbage.

Here is a great resource to find out what more we can all do to preserve our climbing areas in WI.

Lets get a group of volunteers together to help clean up Gibralter and to help destroy the invasive species that plague the area. These efforts, along with our petition, should give us a better chance of gaining access to this crag.
By TravisMelin
From: Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
May 20, 2008
I'd love to see this reopened. Put my name on it. I am curious if it is still closed because the fear of having to incur the cost of another rescue, or because of some protected plant species living there. That might make a difference on how we approach the authorities about reopening the place.
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
May 20, 2008
That's a very good point Travis. I believe they both play a role in keeping it closed. I have contacted Nick Rhoads of the WI Access Fund to find out the progress they made and why the crag is still closed. I will post his response when I receive it.
By Erik Olson
May 20, 2008
You can put my name on it. Anything to provide access for "silent" sports on public land. Can we send a petition around via email? That might work to get more people signed on. If it is a state threatened or endangered species that is the cause for the recent closure we can probably work something out with the DNR were the climbing would only be in certain areas or at certain times of the year or day even.
By Rugger10
May 21, 2008
You can add my name too.
-Kevin Dombrock
By Isaac Therneau
From: Rochester, MN
Jul 15, 2008
I'll sign any petition that furthers the potential for climbing.
By Tradiban
Jul 15, 2008
I have a hard copy of the petition. John do you have another hard copy with names? Issac, I will add your name.
At this point I'm waiting for some responses to some things before moving forward.
By Kris Gorny
Jul 16, 2008
Please add my name as well.
By Jeff Prodzinski
From: West Salem
Jul 18, 2008
I'll sign any petition that furthers the potential for climbing.

Same goes here... Add me as well!
By SteveZ
From: Denver, CO
Sep 2, 2008
You can add me
Steve Dew
By William Kelly
From: Appleton
Oct 1, 2008
Please add me to the petition.
I did some climbing there back in the '60s.
By Garrett Soper
From: Duluth, Minnesota
Oct 24, 2008
Add me too.
Garrett Soper
By Alex Andrews
Nov 19, 2008
Add my name to the list, remember doing nice climbs there back in the 80's.

Alex Andrews
By Corey Morris
From: Fort Sam Houston, TX
Mar 24, 2009
Add me to the list...
By Paul Jones
From: Madison, WI
Jun 23, 2009
Add me to the list. I remember hearing that this closure was due to lack of emergency resources for the county. It was a county decision. I have many great memories of the place as well - some really good routes there.
By Juggler
Oct 13, 2011
Anyone know the status of the petition? I really liked this crag too
By CharlesErickson
From: Evergreen, CO
Sep 28, 2012
I saw Gibralter's face a few years ago and believe this crag should be returned to its climbable state where it should remain.

Please add me to the petition.

Charles Erickson

By Kevin Fons
Mar 7, 2016
I was running the new trails at Gibralter today and there is no signage anywhere saying the area is closed to climbing. The new Ice Age trailhead has information on the trail but nowhere doe sit mention closed to climbing. Has the status changed?
By Doug Hemken
From: Madison, WI
Mar 7, 2016
No change in legal status.
By Neal Javenkoski
Sep 15, 2017
I discussed this site with an administrator of the SNA program, and no changes to access can be made until the "master plan" of the site is up for review, which is not for several years. There are a number of other SNAs with moderate to good climbing potential, I think our best bet is to try and gain access to some smaller areas as their plans get revised and take EXCELLENT care of them. If we establish a good reputation, the DNR may be more amenable to granting access here.

The key arguments against us climbing at Gibraltar from the DNR's point of view is jeopardizing the plant and fungus populations on the rock. Please think twice before gardening in other DNR sites so we don't raise any alarms.
By jon jugenheimer
From: Madison, WI
Sep 17, 2017
Right on Neal. Currently the WCA (Wisconsin Climbers Association) started this process this past spring at Ableman's Gorge, a current SNA property. The property was selected as a "bulk" master plan rewrite of aprox. 10 small SNA properties in southern WI. The DNR received a large amount of public input from climbers to officially recognize and allow rock climbing on the property. The DNR took notice, decided not to fast track this property and began a process to study the gorge in further detail. I was told last spring from people in the WCA involved in the process that an announcement could come as early as this fall, but I am not up to date with the latest info.

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