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Summit Cliff (The Highlands)
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Boy Who Cried Wolf, The S 
Corax crack T 
Dr. Dingle S 
Four Seasons S 
Giant's Chimney T 
Gospel According to Mark, The S 
Guardian, The S 
Karmic Realignment S 
Northern Lights S 
Northwest Passage S 
Passing on the Right TR 
Path of the Righteous S 
Rumpus Time S 
Three Bump Dumper S 
Visions of Jerusalem S 
Where the Wild Things Are S 
Yid Kid, The S 

Giant's Chimney 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R [details]
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Page Views: 400
Submitted By: lee hansche on Jul 22, 2015

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such a cool chimney!

Description 

What an amazing feature. You can literally spot it from miles away. It is a shame it is almost always wet and therefor filthy.

A wide chimney/dike slashing through the otherwise unbroken wall. This bold climb stands out as the dominant feature on the intimidating summit cliff.

I have yet to climb it due to the endless wetness but to say the climbing would be spectacular if it was clean and dry would have to be a statement of truth. Looking right while climbing one of the adjacent routes you can get a great view of the climb, it's rusty pins and lack of too much in the way of protection. After leading The Path of the Righteous it would be possible to traverse right to a bolt and possibly other directional pro to TR the route. I would love to clean it and lead it one day but until then I will settle for what I can get.

Location 

Climb the start of the 5.7 to the tree ledge. then if you can't find the route see an eye doctor haha.

Protection 

pins and gear, bolt at the top. finish on the anchors of Path of the Righteous (I think)


Photos of Giant's Chimney Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: finishing up the chimney
finishing up the chimney
Rock Climbing Photo: deep in the dankness
deep in the dankness
Rock Climbing Photo: Torie in the big scary chimney
Torie in the big scary chimney

Comments on Giant's Chimney Add Comment
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By Eric Leclerc
From: Montreal
Jul 22, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

I top roped this one last year and it is a great climb. A member of team tough told me that it might get bolted which would attract a lot of people and would help keeping the route cleaner. Even dirty as it is I totally enjoyed the huge bridging all the way up. I wouln't do it on gear...
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Oct 14, 2015

This was fun to top rope but still serious at that... There are directional bolts you can gain from path of the righteous and I placed a cam as well in the face... Wear a helmet, there is a LOT Of loose stuff in the upper part of the chimney... The pins it had been said were rotten, I gave a few gentle tugs on a slung pin and It didn't break it disintegrated leaving me holding the sling...

As for retobolting, I'd like that but it would be so much work to make it safe I'm not sure it would see the traffic to justify it... We gotta make a trail... It's just so much trail 😳
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Oct 15, 2015

I will probably be mostly pulling out of activity at Greens next week for the season, so hope to be able to start on the cleaning of this line soon. The trick will be getting a time when there is nobody below to do the initial prying of the loose stuff. I may have to leave a fixed work rope on it to be able to jump on it quickly when conditions permit.

Being a little bit of a pain to get up there is probably a good thing. I am not sure how much traffic this confined area could handle, with thoughtless people shitting and pissing and knocking scree down.
By Eric Leclerc
From: Montreal
Oct 15, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

What is your goal Mark? Will this route be retroed or you just want to make it a cleaner and safer trad climb? The gear needs to be placed deep in the chimney but the fun climbing is just at the edge of it. If this route gets retroed, only a brushing job is needed.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Oct 15, 2015

My idea is to bolt it with SS glue-ins(Andy, the FA, is all for it) , but I need to start with getting rid of the loose stuff and cleaning it up to see how it most naturally climbs, clipping spots etc. I am happy to pitch in the work, but I have to see if the RCA will see it as a worthwhile redo project and provide the bolts.
By Eric Leclerc
From: Montreal
Oct 15, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

This is a great idea because it is a real cool climb that is abandonned up there because there are not enough trad climbers to go for it. I've seen people eyeballing this feature. Since I cannot climb anymore I was thinking maybe working at building a trail up Summit Cliff. I would also clean "The boy who cried wolf". This crag hosts some really beautiful lines but has a bad approach.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Oct 15, 2015

We've had trails up there, but they get demolished from the falling ice and runoff. You have to stay along the more protected left side as much as you can if you hope to have it last a bit. Unfortunately there is very little good material to work with up there. The rocks are mostly small and oddly shaped. Built up RR tie staging areas would just get smashed except for a few spots. The best strategy I think is to just do what you can in the more protected spots and expect to have to re-mattock any switchbacks that head out towards the center periodically, and then try to get people to tread as lightly as possible when hiking up and down (and discourage people bringing their dogs up there, since they dig, tear up and down and don't stay on trail) You need water bars too.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Oct 16, 2015

Maybe a better system of ropes off to the left side would do the trick. As well as fixing a couple of spots to be easier to pass...

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