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Giant's Bite, The Big Red Buttress  T 

Giant's Bite, The Big Red Buttress  

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 700', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Greg Collins
Season: summer
Page Views: 1,205
Submitted By: matt j hartman on Sep 5, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: Route overview.

Description 

This is a good route on good rock once one navigates the more adventurous lower pitches. Move to the obvious buttress on the right of the large couloir that splits the cirque. Locate a very splitter dihedral above. You want to get here.
p-1 choose either face or chimney for a ropelength to a grassy, loose ledge 5.7.
p-2 climb towards the looming dihedral avoiding loose blocks on face. belay at a small stance below corner 5.9. 100'
p-3 this pitch is easily 3 stars. climb the splitter hand crack (if this pitch were at Indian Creek there would be a line up) for 80' and exit to the left, then move right for 20 feet to a huge grassy ledge. 5.9+ 100'
p-4 climb to the left of the huge chimney to an exposed belay stance on prow. better than it looks 5.6 140'.
p-5 climb straight up prow to an alcove 50' from summit 5.8 150'.
p-6 climb up and left to summit (it will make sense). follow the easiest cracks and best rock 5.9 90'. Belay from summit blocks and descend grassy slopes to the SW, turn E in creek back to Leg Lake.

Location 

Big Red Buttress is very obvious from the lake. It is the only butress in the cirque. It is also big and red.

Protection 

Alpine rack. Extra hand sizes.


Photos of Giant's Bite, The Big Red Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up the wall in the P1 belay station.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up the wall in the P1 belay station.
Rock Climbing Photo: nice ledge
nice ledge
Rock Climbing Photo: Big Red Buttress is in the middle
Big Red Buttress is in the middle
Rock Climbing Photo: Jake P. on the money pitch
Jake P. on the money pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: future project?
future project?

Comments on Giant's Bite, The Big Red Buttress Add Comment
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By Cameron Sumpter
From: Lander, WY
Aug 31, 2015
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Notes to add:

P1 - The face option Matt H. describes is just left of the chimney.
P2 - There are 3 options here to gain the small belay below P3. All looked about 5.8 or 5.9.
P3 - Climb the world class crack. We had (3) #2 C4s, and (2) #3 C4s. It was quite safe, a 3rd #3 would make it extra safe.
P4 - Matt's description is right on.
P5 - Climb the up the column on the left of the wide chimney, then I traversed over the top of the chimney at the consriction after 5.8/5.9 moves to the top right side of the chimney and continued to the alcove.
P6 - A short pitch of technical climbing - probably 50-60ft of grunty action then 4th class to the top summit blocks. Belay from the top summit blocks.

Decent: We chose to go north back to the saddle between the Leg Lake basin and Stough basin as we had stashed gear at the lakes below on the way for the hike out, but also because it looked more calm and less dirty.

A fun route in a wonderful spot - on a seldom trafficed wall.

We tried to clean the route up a little and removed some of the more scary large blocks that were directly in the way of the route. Some prior knowledge of the Leg Lake approach and roughly where the trail is (that is not marked on any maps) is worth knowing to shave the hiking time down if approaching from Worthen.
By Adrian Trunzo
Sep 3, 2015
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

A great route that can be done in a day from Lander (i.e. the dream!). All of the pitches had fun climbing, especially the 2nd and 3rd. Cameron has nicely summed up what we found but I would add that you should expect nice belay stances on this climb. We were able to belay from ledges spacious enough to stand next to each other or at least with enough space for the leader to sit down to belay the second. On the second belay, there is a ledge system with a few options that will allow you to build an anchor without using the hand size pieces needed on the third pitch. The fourth pitch doesn't end at an obvious spot as do the other pitches, but there is a sloping ledge with enough room to sit (takes small gear) if you keep climbing above the slightly awkward roof/bulge. (There is a nut stuck in a crack on the left side of the bulge.)
By matt j hartman
From: Leavenworth WA
Sep 18, 2015

Good to see folks getting out there on this thing!!
By TSpiegelberg
From: Sheridan, Wyoming
Jul 25, 2017

Climbed this route 7/24/17!
Super fun day in the mountains. Climbing alpine granite in a day with enough time to drink beer at home can't be beat. Route finding here is super easy with the beta provided and 4 of the 5 pitches (we linked some?) are very high quality. The splitter corner alone made it worth it. There is a fair bit of loose rock, but we did our best to clean up belay ledges and some of the bigger flakes as no one else was in the cirque that day. Enjoy!

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