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Chilly Willy Wall
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Giant Boulder Middle 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 513
Submitted By: George Perkins on Sep 24, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Description 

The middle and hardest bolted line on the detached boulder in front of Chilly Willy Wall follows a broad rib. Slabby, low-angle smearing moves between occasional positive holds as you try to stay in balance on the arete on what is really a bolted highball boulder problem. It has a high first bolt, which may make it a poor choice for a sketchy 5.9 leader.

Rappel from the shared anchor at the top of the boulder (which would be improved if it had chains).

Location 

The middle of the 3 bolted lines on the detached boulder in front of Chilly Willy Wall.

Protection 

2 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.


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By Arthur Sullivan
From: Albuquerque,NM
Nov 4, 2010

Maybe I was missing something but this felt very difficult for 5.9 if you stick to the bolt line. Its short but pulling over the arete felt like a 5.10 move.
By Mike M
From: Sandia Park, NM
Sep 19, 2016

Agree with Arthur, no way this is 5.9 going up the bolt line. 5.9 moves up through the 2nd bolt that lead to a good jug...unfortunately that where it all turns. Good hands above the bulge disappear at the same time you run out of feet. I gave up after a few short whips here.
By Andrew B. Ellis
Sep 4, 2017
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

You are both correct. The crux is probably 10b and very balancy. at least you should be able to get the second bolt clipped before entering it.

Probably the coolest of the 3 routes, but still not an attention grabber.

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