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Chilly Willy Wall
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Candy Corn S 
Donkey Show S 
Giant Boulder Left S 
Giant Boulder Middle S 
Giant Boulder Right S 
Half Baked Alaska S 
No Sketching S 
Ragnarok T,TR 
Smedley's Pancakes S 
Tasty Freeze T 
Turkey Sandwich T 
Wet Willies S 

Giant Boulder Left 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 956
Submitted By: Chris Wenker on May 12, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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BETA PHOTO: Yellow is bolted route and about a 5.8. The Red is...

Description 

Sort of a V0- highball boulder problem with bolts (and an anchor from which to abseil). The first bolt can be reached from the ground, which helps protect against a ground fall during the low cruxy moves before reaching the stability of the first undercling. Relatively pedestrian underclings and sidepulls then carry you to the top.

This route is cursorily described by Jackson (2006) and Beverly (2006).

Location 

This climb is on the left (north) side of the giant boulder that leans against the front of the Chilly Willy Wall.

Protection 

Three bolts. The first bolt is appreciated, but the top two bolts are located right next to detached flakes that would allow gear placements -- go figure.
A two-bolt top anchor is shared with the other climbs on this boulder. Long slings (as compared to quickdraws) are useful at the anchor.


Photos of Giant Boulder Left Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Giant Boulder Left (Unnamed 5.8), Chilly Willy Wal...
BETA PHOTO: Giant Boulder Left (Unnamed 5.8), Chilly Willy Wal...

Comments on Giant Boulder Left Add Comment
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By Mike M
From: Sandia Park, NM
Sep 19, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Very tricky first moves, especially for a shorter person, I think the whole boulder is a bit stout for the grade.
By Andrew B. Ellis
Sep 4, 2017
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

I agree - this problem in particular felt much harder than 5.8 off the ground. I give it a 5.10- rating just for the first 3 moves. The rest of the route felt 5.8- and is quite run-out (botching the second clip or even falling just short of it results in a ground fall. but if you made it past the first few moves the rest should be cake.)

All in all a forgettable route, and not for the aspiring 5.8 leader.

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