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GI Joe T 

GI Joe 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: US Army climbers of the 10th Mountain Division, 1940s
Page Views: 107
Submitted By: Bosier Parsons on Nov 4, 2008

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Reopened after flood damage! MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a fun climb for the position and the summit, but the protection will make you wonder. You could climb it just with quickdraws, but I found it more soothing on my mind to place some cams, as well.

The climbing is easy up to the notch. Above this, on the Northeast arete, spot the line of fixed protection where the route goes. At the notch, you can place a couple 1/2"-3/4" cams. The first piton is pretty worthless. Above that you can place a small, red C4 Camalot, but you will only have two lobes in the crumbly rock. Just work your feet a little and you can easily reach the next piton, which is much better. Pull through the crux move, and continue on easier climbing past 3 very old bolts to the airy summit.

The anchor consists of 2 large pipes sticking straight up out of the rock, along with one railroad spike piton with a chain link on it. I actually slung one of the pipes, along with the spike, and then used a jammed knot in a crack, and equalized them all and left some rap rings. One might just as easily simply throw the rope over the pipes, but I was worried about the potential for it to pop, if I unweighted. So, hopefully the anchor I left is still there for future parties (although it still might not be too inspiring to some climbers).

Location 

After scrambling up the talus slope on the west side of the formation, rope up and start climbing directly below the obvious notch on the north side of the summit.

Protection 

Small to medium cams, quickdraws, and maybe some wireds. See the notes above on the anchor. Rappel.


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By Adam Block
From: Colorado Springs, CO
May 4, 2017
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

FA: Jimmy Dunn, free solo.

Small wires to finger-sized gear. The anchor on top was cut due to extreme weathering. A weighted rappel off the pipes was used.

Good adventure and excellent perch. Worth the spooky moves.
By Stewart M. Green
May 12, 2017

This route was actually first climbed in the 1940s by US Army climbers in the 10th Mountain Division. It was an aid route. Jimmie and I first climbed it in 1969. It was all fixed then with 1/4-inch bolts and army angles. The name back then was Crow's Nest, but after we did a couple other routes on the spire, I started calling it GI Joe.

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