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Redgarden - Tower Two
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10,000 Leagues T 
After The Gold Rush T 
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Diving Board, The T 
Dizzy Miss Lizzy (aka Scrutiny on the Bounty) S 
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Ghoul's Turn T,TR 
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Scratch and Sniff T,S,TR 
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Seize of Holds T 
Serpent, The T 
Shasta T 
Sickness Unto Death S 
Slots of Fun T 
Slow Train Coming T,S 
Superlink, The T 
T2 T 
T2 Direct Finish T 
Touch 'N' Go T 
Weeping Willow T 
Wild Kingdom T,S 
Wingless Victory S 

Ghoul's Turn 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a X

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a X [details]
FA: Steve Levin
Page Views: 2,189
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Apr 18, 2002

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  • Description 

    This is a long, elegant, but dangerous face route on the long-overlooked plaque of rock left of Jules Verne and Green Willow Wall. It starts about ten feet down the ramp (right) from Fool's Learn (a 5.10+ seam) and just left of a long, left-trending arch (Cameron Tague's Weeping Willow).

    You can recognize this route by a black streak down low, which leads to a horn at mid-height, topped off by a long, green face tilted back at 88 degrees, and an easier crack to finish. This pitch finishes at the anchors atop Fool's Learn and can easily be toproped (bring some gear to back up the funky fixed jive).

    Boulder off the ramp on flaky rock, which quickly improves. Crank left into the offset seam, placing small RP's and getting creative with stoppers (5.11). The seam leads to a horn and a nice rest stance. Sling the horn (a double-length or Rabbit runner is nice here) and run it out up the green face on crisp, but somewhat cripsy edges (5.10 vs). A thank-God jug appears just after you enter the deck fall zone ...

    Easier climbing leads to the anchors.


    You're not going to need much. RPs, stoppers, TCUs (double up in the very smallest sizes - #0 and #00), and maybe a bit of hand-sized gear for the finishing crack and belay.

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