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Big Horn Wall
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Broken Arrows S 
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Custer's Last Stand S 
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Tribal War S 

Ghost Dancers 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: John Gogus
Page Views: 1,419
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Sep 11, 2006

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Scott pulling hard on the crux section of the qual...


Based on the polish, this route would appear to be the most popular line at Sitting Bull Falls. This shorty is extremely powerful for the grade. The cruxes here are harder than any single move on Coup, Eagles or Tribal War, however, the difficulties are so brief that the pump-factor never comes into play. I would argue that Counting Coup is easier than Ghost Dancers.

Begin with a couple of easy moves to a strenuous clip at the 2nd bolt. It would definitely be possible to blow this clip, so you may want to use a spotter, or stick clip this bolt your first time up. The first crux comes moving past this bolt with a painful 2 finger pocket (that sometimes contains a bat!) and a hard crank up to a great side-pull slot. Shuffle the feet then crank up to a slopey edge and dyno for the obvious jug. Clip the third bolt, then enter the crux. The pockets are big here, but they aren't very deep or positive, and the feet suddenly turn into tiny edges, making the next couple of moves desperate. A great (though small) 2-finger pocket leads to a huge rail of jugs and a great rest (and a possible arm thread). A few easier moves lead up to a final tricky slab move below the first anchor.


3rd route from the left end of the Big Horn Wall.


Bolts to the first set of two springer anchors.

Photos of Ghost Dancers Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Clipping the anchors on Ghost Dancers 5.12a
Clipping the anchors on Ghost Dancers 5.12a
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt finishing Ghost Dancers
Matt finishing Ghost Dancers

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By Monomaniac
From: Morrison, CO
Nov 11, 2007

I give this only 2 stars because its very short, its very polished, and its not very sustained.
By tim naylor
Aug 7, 2010
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

i agree with mono, almost a highball v4/5 boulder problem. excited to try longer routes.
By LeeAB Brinckerhoff
From: ABQ, NM
Sep 7, 2010

From what I saw this weekend it could easily be bouldered. Someone was dropped from the pocket section going between the 3rd and 4th bolts and landed on the nice flat area just infront of the boulders that make nice benches. Just don't blow it any higher.

PS The climber seemed fine afterwards and took a couple of burns on Broken Arrow.
By Victoria Edwards
Sep 4, 2017
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I think this is a great route. Hard moves with good rests in between

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