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Ghost Dancer Spire T 

Ghost Dancer Spire 


Type:  Trad, Aid, 1 pitch, 60'
Original: C1+ [details]
FA: Paul Ross , Layne Potter, 8th Jan., 2002
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 4,499
Submitted By: USBRIT Ross on Jan 2, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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More FA.


Follow fix nails, tied off lumps and things. This could be free climbed.


This is located high up the hillside opposite (east?) the Pot Hole Parking area. It requires about a 20-30 minute hike.


Tie offs, slings. Rope.

Photos of Ghost Dancer Spire Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Nice silhouette.
Nice silhouette.
Rock Climbing Photo: First Ascent Ghost Dancer Spire.
First Ascent Ghost Dancer Spire.
Rock Climbing Photo: Sweet!
Rock Climbing Photo: The summit block.
The summit block.
Rock Climbing Photo: Nathan on the lead.
Nathan on the lead.
Rock Climbing Photo: P. Ross on the first ascent.
P. Ross on the first ascent.
Rock Climbing Photo: More FA.
More FA.
Rock Climbing Photo: Send it!
Send it!
Rock Climbing Photo: The spire as viewed from the Pot Holes parking are...
The spire as viewed from the Pot Holes parking are...

Comments on Ghost Dancer Spire Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 25, 2016
By Jason Kaplan
From: Glenwood ,Co
Apr 26, 2009

So the nails are for protection? How big are they? No hangers, straight up pounded into dirt? This thing looks pretty sweet, but how solid is it?
From: Keswick Cumbria.UK
Apr 26, 2009

Quite solid...go have a look.
By Jason Kaplan
From: Glenwood ,Co
May 14, 2009

I'll have to do that. It looks really awesome, why only 2 stars?
By Legs Magillicutty
From: Durango
Sep 11, 2009

Any idea what it goes at free?
By Jason Kaplan
From: Glenwood ,Co
Nov 22, 2009

Wow! This thing is wild! We finally got back out there and got to the base of it with enough time. Somehow I talked my friend Nathan into leading it as I figured he would get more out of the experience then I would. He found it to be a little tough and pretty intimidating. At about the 2/3 point, he was standing on a rock ledge that blew out on him, the nail that caught him was not so solid he said. Seemed he thought he could pull it out with his fingers! Also, you might want to be good at high stepping as it seemed a lot of nails were out of reach for him. He ended up lassoing most of them from lower in his ladders.

I'm going to have to come back and lead it, 'cause it's wicked!

So for C2 or 3 to be possible on this sort of thing I'm guessing you get 2 options, lasso protruding rocks and tie them off instead of putting in nails except where there is no other option, or the dirt has to be soft enough to make the nails suspect right? or a combo of both.

Good luck on a free ascent legs, it would be a horror show I would guess, but maybe after you top roped the piss out of it.
From: Keswick Cumbria.UK
Dec 2, 2009

Go to it,'re almost there. It is a LOT more solid than the Palisade piles of choss...sending a few more pics. P.S. the nails are 8" long. I did tie off at least one of the stones?
By tooTALLtim
From: Boulder, CO
May 15, 2010

You guys must have some great health insurance and wickedly expensive life insurance!
By rmaultsby
From: grand junction, co
Oct 13, 2011

Climbed this Tuesday. Fun. Scary. Surprisingly solid.
By Nick Broeder
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Nov 27, 2011
rating: C1+

Climbed this today, fun little dicy aid route on an awesome dirt tower. I definitely see this thing going free. The bigger rocks are pretty solid, and I felt pretty relaxed doing free moves out of my ladders all the way up. It might be scary, but it would be a bold free ascent for sure. The only part I see being a problem would be getting on and over the caprock; there could be a way though. If no one jumps on it, I might have to give it a two nails before the caprock need to be pounded in a bit, they are a bit loose, and the top nail before the caprock is showing about 4 inches and is very scary. I free climbed around it to reach the bomber bolt on the caprock.
By scottvan
Sep 16, 2012

Aided up this thing today. SUPER FUN!! Thank you for putting this up! My buddy climbed it on TR and called it 5.8 with a 5.9 move onto the capstone. It would be a VERY sketchy lead though. I was able to pull out one of the nails by hand (after I hung on it), but I tapped it back in pretty solid on my way down. It should be good for a day or two.
By Paul Barish
Oct 24, 2016

I led this and as of October 23, 2016 the route was still reasonable to climb. Not knowing how long those nails are, it's hard to say how sketchy the climb actually was but they seemed fairly solid. They were all sticking out about an inch, inch and a half except the one just below the cap Rock which was about 3 or 4 inches, I tried to hammer it in but it didn't move. Someone said the nails are 8" and I hope that's true! The anchor on top is solid bolts. This climb is absolutely incredible and definitely one of a kind. Heady.
From: Keswick Cumbria.UK
Oct 25, 2016

Yes, it's fun. Nails are 8".... Quite a solid structure. Cheers

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