Type: | Sport, 40 ft (12 m) |
FA: | Wolfgang Gullich, 1986 |
Page Views: | 1,112 total · 10/month |
Shared By: | Monomaniac on Dec 2, 2014 |
Admins: | Shawn Heath |
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Description
In 1986, after a winter spent writing the landmark Sportklettern Heute, Wolfgang Gullich left his mark on Rabenfels with his ascent of Ghettoblaster, hailed as the first upper-tenth grade route in Germany, and one of the hardest routes in the world at the time (Gullich had established Punks in the Gym, the first X+ or 5.14a precisely 51 weeks earlier). Prolific Frankenjura route developer Mylan Sykora said at the time of Gullichs first ascent that Ghettoblaster was a route on which no other German climber had even the slightest chance.
The route follows a streak of 1-pad deep water pockets up a 6-meter stretch of 25-degree overhanging flawless blue/gray limestone on the west face of Rabenfels. The climbing is technical and bouldery, requiring long precise deadpoints between pockets. The crux is a huge lock-off or deadpoint from one deep mono to another.
The route follows a streak of 1-pad deep water pockets up a 6-meter stretch of 25-degree overhanging flawless blue/gray limestone on the west face of Rabenfels. The climbing is technical and bouldery, requiring long precise deadpoints between pockets. The crux is a huge lock-off or deadpoint from one deep mono to another.
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