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Ghettoblaster 

YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a [details]
FA: Wolfgang Gullich, 1986
Page Views: 146
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Dec 2, 2014

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The west face of Rabenfels, home to two steep Wolf...

Description 

In 1986, after a winter spent writing the landmark Sportklettern Heute, Wolfgang Gullich left his mark on Rabenfels with his ascent of Ghettoblaster, hailed as the first upper-tenth grade route in Germany, and one of the hardest routes in the world at the time (Gullich had established Punks in the Gym, the first X+ or 5.14a precisely 51 weeks earlier). Prolific Frankenjura route developer Mylan Sykora said at the time of Gullich’s first ascent that Ghettoblaster “was a route on which no other German climber had even the slightest chance.”

The route follows a streak of 1-pad deep water pockets up a 6-meter stretch of 25-degree overhanging flawless blue/gray limestone on the west face of Rabenfels. The climbing is technical and bouldery, requiring long precise deadpoints between pockets. The crux is a huge lock-off or deadpoint from one deep mono to another.

Location 

On the far left side of the tower, up the hill and in the trees, is a ring bolt at ground-level on the west buttress of the formation. Belay at this ring bolt, and follow the left-most of the two bolted lines that begin here (the right line is Westside Story).

Protection 

4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.


Photos of Ghettoblaster Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Ghettoblaster ends with fun jug hauling.
Ghettoblaster ends with fun jug hauling.
Rock Climbing Photo: The crux mono deadpoint.
The crux mono deadpoint.
Rock Climbing Photo: Bouldery pocket climbing, beginning the crux seque...
Bouldery pocket climbing, beginning the crux seque...
Rock Climbing Photo: The west face of Rabenfels in profile.  The green ...
The west face of Rabenfels in profile. The green ...

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