|Original:||Hueco: V8 Font: 7B [details]|
|Submitted By:||BDalhaus on Feb 14, 2008|
|Comments on Ghetto Knowledge||Add Comment|
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By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Oct 26, 2014
rating: V9 7C
Bryce, what's with the one star???
This climb gets almost no attention, but I think it's amazingly good and deserving of standing next to 'Italian Stallion'. Technical and powerful. Max extension deadpoints off of small holds. Highball. Full value in every possible way.
There are a couple of different ways to start this problem. You can start matched on the diagonal crimp at 7-8 feet. Or start with left hand on the diagonal crimp and the right hand using a mono on the face to the right. I've done it both ways and the difficulty feels the same. I prefer the mono method because it's such a cool hold that it's almost a crime not to use it! Figure out a way to latch the lone crimp on the face and then make another huge deadpoint to an incut edge above. Move to juggy sidepulls above and finish up the tall face as for 'Italian Stallion'.
This is an extremely reach dependent problem. For me, it felt like hard v8/low end v9 since I was at my absolute reach limit for both deadpoints. For taller folks, it might feel a bit easier. For shorter folks, it might very well be impossible. Or many grades harder.
No matter what, it's an amazing climb worthy of traffic and praise.