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Untitled, The S 
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Ghetto Cruiser 

YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Taylor, Garland, Dieckhoff, '88
Page Views: 4,766
Submitted By: pete cogan on Oct 14, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (63)
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Clint Locks halfway up Ghetto Cruiser, contemplati...

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  • Description 

    This is another fun moderate on Cadillac Crag. Approx 100 feet long, on Fin One. As you look up, the huge roof looms to your left; a smaller roof is also left. Climb up to the smaller roof, then bear right to a huge tree and walk off right.

    The route follows a fairly straight line, beginning in a big V (which I guess Rossiter calls a left-facing dihedral). You can see it all from the base.

    Excellent for moderate leaders.


    Up to #4 Friend. Good pro and good anchors at the top.

    Photos of Ghetto Cruiser Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Deep in the Ghetto.
    Deep in the Ghetto.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Topping out on Fin one via Ghetto Cruiser.
    Topping out on Fin one via Ghetto Cruiser.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Entering the Ghetto.
    Entering the Ghetto.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Rick Blair leading on Hot! day.
    BETA PHOTO: Rick Blair leading on Hot! day.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Ghetto Cruiser route on Fin 1.
    BETA PHOTO: Ghetto Cruiser route on Fin 1.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Ghetto Cruiser (red) to Easy Street (green)
    BETA PHOTO: Ghetto Cruiser (red) to Easy Street (green)
    Rock Climbing Photo: Ghetto Cruiser variation (Red dots) to Easy Street...
    Ghetto Cruiser variation (Red dots) to Easy Street...

    Comments on Ghetto Cruiser Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 17, 2011
    By Michael Walker
    From: Loveland, CO
    Nov 4, 2001

    This route is memorable and old school 5.7. If the face to the left of the huge crack is taken, continuing the sunstained nature of the dihedral, an exciting route is had. the moves are [strenuous] and rewarding. Don't bear right to a tree but charge straight up to a slot. Above the slot is the ramp leading to Easy street and the summit. Finish with Easy Street for a two star route. A fine autumn climb with a SW orientation. The route description is kind of ambiguous, so here's the take on my line: start from a ledge above the talus slope on the SW face of Fin 1, above and to the right from the bottom of the colorful face. Traverse to the left toward the huge roof on an easy strata. A [right] facing corner shoots up before reaching the arete after about 15 feet. The start has dual cracks (the one on the right takes good gear) and the fun is stemming b/w these a nice stance. Contemplate your future, your objective is the large slot between overhanging roof sections. You can work right and be below a wide fist crack that goes up to the right small roof and then work left under the roof to the large slot; or (recommended) continue straight up the corner, placing great gear in the crack before it ends. Place it well from your good stance because you will be forced out onto the face to work around the bulge and you might get pumped trying to place marginal gear when the crack resumes. This section is not for the meek. Your next rest and good gear is a stance and hand jam under the slot. Continue up the large slot, which is easy.
    By Clint Locks
    From: Boulder
    Oct 9, 2003
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    Just wanted to mention that the rappel anchors on the top are quite the museum pieces. If you're concerned, bring about 10-15 ft of webbing to tie around a horn on the summit to back them up. I've got an application in to replace them and it should be done by, say, December. Definitely string together Ghetto and Easy. Good times!
    By shad O'Neel
    Dec 7, 2003

    combined with easy street this is a great route, the summit is worth the sections of hollow flakes. the rap bolts are solid, the hangers are old homemade jobs, but they seem safe. pretty adventurey, lichen, chong-a-bong flakes and exposure near the top combine to give this a microneering feel. and yes, some of us like that over waiting in lines to climb classics......oh and the views are grand.
    By Brenda Leach
    From: Sandy, Utah
    Sep 28, 2004

    We really wanted to climb V3 on Fin 4, but that was already taken. Rossiter doesn't give Ghetto Cruiser a star rating so I wasn't expecting much. But, this is a fun climb. I agree that it's an old school 5.7 rating. Getting up the steep slot is a little strenous with a committing move, but it's fun and the pro is there. I used a small pebble on the left wall to make that last move into the slot. We didn't continue up Easy Street, but scrambled back down to the base instead to see if V3 was available.
    By Jason Shatek
    Jan 22, 2005
    rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

    Did this route on [Thursday] and really wasn't expecting anything since its rated 5.7. This route felt more 5.8 to me near the top. But, I stayed in the dihedral the whole way. The gear placement is good and the route gets nice and steep. The moves felt quite commiting near the top! I think this route gets by with two stars.
    By Kevin Currigan
    From: Lakewood
    Aug 12, 2006

    The old bolts and hangers are still there. Because of where the bolts have been placed it requires good rope management and serious muscle to pull your rope. We rapped into the gully to the west and at the big tree/2nd rap station there was only a single sling with a leaver biner on it. At this date the sling is in good shape. The cord being used at the top is another matter. It is tied well but was pretty toasty. Being it is directly threaded through the old stamped hangers it is time to replace it. Just a couple of screw links through the hangers would help this anchor/rap station. To make this a well-oiled 2 raps to the ground you might consider: four small, screw links, 25' feet of 1" tube you can cut up and a couple of rap rings. The four links (or two links and two rap rings) and 10'(? maybe a little extra just in case) of the webbing for the top and the rings and the rest of the webbing at the big tree. Great pitch. But the rap, at least the way we did it, was as not good.
    By Mick Follari
    From: Boulder
    Oct 1, 2007

    Led this yesterday (9/30). Had only one rope and rapped off the back, then walked around. I concur with Kevin that I did not love the cord directly through the old-ish bolt/hangars as the profile on the hangars is very thin and 'sharp'. Couple quicklinks would do it (I woulda, but didn't have 'em).
    By Chris Archer
    Nov 24, 2008
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    Surprisingly fun route. Not sure where you'd place the number 4. It is too small for all but the first few feet of the offwidth. More pleasant climbing is had in the dihedral to the left of the OW. Belaying just before heading up and left on the Easy Street ramp will prevent considerable rope drag and provide some shelter from gale force winter winds.

    The anchors are not well thought out. The two options are extending the anchors with long slings to lower to the bolts on the top of Untitled/Ichiban Arete and rapping from there or rap off the back and hike around.
    By Sean Wolf
    From: Denver, CO
    Aug 17, 2009
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    Probably best to double rope rappel from the anchors, but I think you would be ok rapping from the back if you make sure to throw the cord over the top towards the backside. An adventurous route with a great view on top gets three stars from me. I guess I would say just to be careful with the large flakes at the crux, could become more flexible with time.
    By Count Chockula
    From: Littleton, CO
    Jun 28, 2010

    Fun, fun, fun! One of my new favorites at the grade in Eldo. Good gear and a few tricky moves kept me thinking all the way. The short runout at the bulge where the crack ends briefly gave me some pause, but it's all there once you get moving. The steep roof was a hoot and is protected well by a #3 BD.

    As others have stated, rapping off seems more of a cluster than it's worth IMO. Just use the obvious walkoff.
    By Luke Clarke
    From: Golden
    Nov 29, 2010

    This route is a nice warm up to start your day. It faces southeast and is one of the first lines on Cadillac to get sun. Sling gear long at the top of the corner, so you can traverse on to Easy Street and the bolt anchors. They were rigged with a long cordelette in good condition yesterday which made it possible to rap to the tree at the start of Ichiban (and another rap to the ground).
    By Ryan Fischer
    From: Littleton
    Sep 17, 2011

    This route was way cool! I thought given the two star rating that it would be junky. I think if you bail left toward the tree, you are basically bailing before the slightly overhanging and fun crux.

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