Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
The Wicked Cave
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cryptic Egyptian S 
Deity S 
F.U.C.K. S 
Feast (aka Fat Lady), The S 
Get Shorty S 
Magnetar S 
Planet X S 
Quick Tick Egyptian S 
Sexy Beast S 
Shades S 
Skyline Fire Dance S 
Slice of Life S 
Tombraider S 
Zulu S 

Get Shorty 

YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a [details]
FA: Jean-Paul Finne, Kurt Smith (Deity)
Page Views: 77
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Nov 21, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

This route, while easy to find, is somewhat confusing, given the different names and ratings assigned to it dependent upon which set of anchors you stop at.

Bolted in its entirety by Kurt Smith, this is the first line to the left of the huge bowl of the Wicked Cave proper (there is a crap 12d to low anchors just left of it) and climbs a radically bulging wall to a body length capping roof. While the stone down low leaves a bit to be desired, it gets better the higher you get.

The route is a powerful 12c/d to the first set of anchors (double cold shuts) and features long moves off of good pockets. Continuing past here to a (sometimes) fixed draw below the roof yields Kurt Smith's route Deity (13b), a seldom-done tick at the grade. The full package, which continues out the roof via a powerful, cryptic sequence on undercling fins and poor fingerlocks to a final anchor is Jean Paul Finne's Get Shorty (13d/14a), which he fired off in three tries, fresh off an early repeat of Just Do It.

While easy to dog, the upper roof presents a somewhat intimidating proposition on lead, as you must skip a clip or two and your last clip is under the roof, ensuring a bit of a slammer should you pitch. While lacking the "big number" appeal of the nearby Crew (14b), this route does have an engaging, powerful crux sequence.

Protection 

Mucho quickdraws, perhaps as many as 15.


Comments on Get Shorty Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -