Get it while it's hot
||Trad, 4 pitches, 720', Grade II
|Original: || YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b PG13 [details]|
|FA: ||N.B., A.M., July 2010|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||SUMMER (early in the morning)|
|Page Views: ||750|
|Submitted By: ||andjoely on Jul 27, 2010|
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This route climbs the entire groove which Groovin' in the Name of the Laurel follows for 130 feet. While Groovin' is very climbable when the groove is wet, this one would be very challenging and scary to climb when wet. Also I have seen the groove entirely frozen several times this past winter but it usually falls down before 10am so it might make a very bold ice climb. The groove basically has a seasonable stream running down it that is usually only dry in high summer, even when there are frequent afternoon T-storms. The climbing is very high quality fairly deep groove climbing.
P1: Climb the low angle slab on the left side of the manatee apron to a gear anchor with a #4 camalot. (5.4)
P2: (5.10d) Climb steep wall directly up to flakes that take you to a bolt or climb easier, better protected terrain up seams to the right. From the bolt, continue past 3 more bolts and gear to a long runout on 5.7 terrain protected by a cliffhanger hook (180 ft)
P3: (5.9) Continue up groove past 3 bolts and gear to 2 bolt anchor (180 ft.)
P4: (5.9) Continue up the groove to a steep bulge with small gear in the slabby corner below Continue up the groove past a huge, precariously balanced death flake to the left. Traverse left to the tree island (160 ft)
Start on left side of manatee apron
Doubles of small cams, singles to #4 camalot, tricams, nuts, taped down cliffhanger hook.
Another shot of P2 during the FA
From: western NC
Jul 28, 2010
I would have to give this one four stars if it weren't for the fact that it's wet throughout the best seasons. Stellar groove climbing!