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Get a Grip 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Ward Smith Nov 2014
Page Views: 1,583
Submitted By: lee hansche on Jan 3, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (44)
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the set up before the crux section

Description 

On the very right side of the Get It On cave, there is a quartz section low to the ground. Some bouldering has happened on this interestingly featured rock over the years, mostly while waiting out a passing rain storm or playing around while waiting for a turn. I never thought to continue the climbing in to a full route, but I'm glad someone did. The route Ward added might have a brief crux, but the climbing is interesting, the rock is perfect, and the route is worthwhile.

Stick clip a bolt or two and then get bouldery as you move trough the quartz and in to the schist. Steep juggy holds lead to a powerful crux (a bit easier if tall) involving an undercling, some funky footwork and ultimately a nice pay off in the way of a solid jug at the end of the crux. From there rest stances abound and the climbing is no harder than 5.9 or 5.10- but it's fun and well worth doing.

One nice detail is that the two 5.12s to the left are almost always wet and this one was bone dry as the icicles built up on its neighbors. What? You don't climb on icicle days?

Location 

Starts out the right side of the cave on the right side of main cliff. look for the pretty stainless glue-ins.

Protection 

5 bolts to anchors if i remember correctly.
My brain was frozen


Photos of Get a Grip Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Getting in to the hard part
Getting in to the hard part
Rock Climbing Photo: this was my set up for the big move... note the hi...
this was my set up for the big move... note the hi...
Rock Climbing Photo: Two nice young ladies I met at the cliff. She was ...
Two nice young ladies I met at the cliff. She was ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Safe falls are always a plus
Safe falls are always a plus
Rock Climbing Photo: Clipping in the middle of the business
Clipping in the middle of the business
Rock Climbing Photo: Brydie (I think was her name)
Brydie (I think was her name)
Rock Climbing Photo: Damon setting up for the tall person move.
Damon setting up for the tall person move.

Comments on Get a Grip Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 4, 2016
By ward smith
Jan 3, 2015
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

Been walking by this forever, but it turned out better than I thought. Only downside is that the crux is a bit height-dependant; I think short climbers will find it stiff.
By Eli
From: Lives in a truck
Mar 10, 2015
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

A couple burly moves leading into a couple technical moves, and then a rest-fest until the top.
By Lavery
May 3, 2015
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Fun route. Especially nice that even on the most crowded days, I've never seen another climber down here.
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Jun 25, 2015
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

A great addition. Who knew that such nice rock was hiding under all that lichen up top? Well, I guess Ward knew!
By Eric Leclerc
From: Montreal
Jul 5, 2015
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Great short route. The rock is really nice. This will qualify as the easiest 12b in Rumney. It felt almost soft for 12a. Even if something broke at the top, the exit feels like 5.11b to me.
By eric parham
Aug 2, 2015
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I am 5'8 and it felt no harder than a/b. I could see a few inches dropping that grade a bit. The top is no harder than 5.9.
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Oct 9, 2015
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

This is a pretty cool climb, a fun boulder problem to nice easy top section. I agree the exit from the dihedral to the slab at the top is no harder than 5.9, it is just not very obvious when you get there.
By Zach Swanson
From: Newton, MA
Sep 8, 2016
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

I'd love to hear how you guys turn the dihedral into a 5.9 sequence. I'd agree with Eric that it felt like an 11 up there.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 8, 2016

I'll try to catch some video of it at some point. Mostly tricky footwork.
By S. Neoh
Sep 8, 2016

Make that three who is wondering how the dihedral is not at least 5.10. We attempted the route under the watchful eye of DaveQ who later told us that the top can go as an almost arete climb rather than a dihedral. Not quite sure how that is done. Maybe that way makes it easier than staying in the dihedral.

V4/V4+ for the midway bouldery crux seems about right. I have no ape factor at 5'5".
By Eric Leclerc
From: Montreal
Sep 9, 2016
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

A video of a 6'4" climber that climbs like a 5'6"!!!
Will that help anybody Lee? Hahaha...
By Zach Swanson
From: Newton, MA
Sep 10, 2016
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

I think I saw the easier sequence yesterday. Friend got up into the dihedral, made the clip, and then stemmed really far left until he was able to just walk up the arrete.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 11, 2016

hahaha eric. I'm only 6'2" :P
By Nick Grant
From: Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Sep 18, 2016
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Dihedral: 5.9
By Bob Cooper III
Oct 3, 2016
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

I repeated this yesterday and added the sit start. It's silly, but it was really fun and added a few moves to the meat of the climb. I've not done many climbs at this, or any grade really, but it does seem soft to me, even at 12a. If someone told me this was some flavor of 11 before I got on it I would have had no problem with the grade.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Oct 4, 2016

Key point is that you havent much to compare it to. Congrats, you are stronger than you thought. :)

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