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Routes in Main Cliff Right
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Charity Case S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Charity Toad S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cherry Pie* T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crack Addict S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crowd Pleaser S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dead Toad* S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Easy Street T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Flawless Victory S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Freebird* T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Friendship Tower S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Gentleman's Route S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Get a Grip S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Get It On S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Happy Hooker T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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High Roller* S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Losing Eleven* S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Magic Daze S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Magic Helmet S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Model Citizen S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Resurrection Stone S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Run Out T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Stained Glass Ceiling* S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Stairway to Heaven* S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tipping Point S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Toady Dreams S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Tour De Toad S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wendell's Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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White Toad T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
| Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | Ward Smith Nov 2014 |
| Page Views: | 4,763 total · 42/month |
| Shared By: | Lee Hansche on Jan 3, 2015 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
Description
On the very right side of the Get It On cave, there is a quartz section low to the ground. Some bouldering has happened on this interestingly featured rock over the years, mostly while waiting out a passing rain storm or playing around while waiting for a turn. I never thought to continue the climbing in to a full route, but I'm glad someone did. The route Ward added might have a brief crux, but the climbing is interesting, the rock is perfect, and the route is worthwhile.
Stick clip a bolt or two and then get bouldery as you move through the quartz and in to the schist. Steep juggy holds lead to a powerful crux (a bit easier if tall) involving an undercling, some funky footwork and ultimately a nice pay off in the way of a solid jug at the end of the crux. From there rest stances abound and the climbing is no harder than 5.9 or 5.10- but it's fun and well worth doing.
One nice detail is that the two 5.12s to the left are almost always wet and this one was bone dry as the icicles built up on its neighbors. What? You don't climb on icicle days?
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