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Güeros Rancheros 

YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 125'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Dustin Stephens & Mark Grundon
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 696
Submitted By: Dustin Stephens on Jan 6, 2013

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On the steepest section of the Mota Wall is this sustained and technical line. 5.9 slab leads to an interesting tufa-drip section with some dual-arete slapping and very poor feet, followed by continuous technical moves on sidepulls, underclings, and a few perfect pockets leading to the anchor.


Just left of La Vaca's 11+ upper section. Start on La Vaca's 5.9 slab and then continue straight up toward a black streak rather than trending right. Continue through 8 bolts of independent climbing then finish to the right and descend from La Vaca's anchor (upgraded to stainless steel in December 2012). Rap or lower to the first anchor, pull your rope, and rap or lower again. An 80-meter rope can sort-of-almost make it to the ground safely from the upper anchor if you move a bit uphill, so tie a knot in the end of the rope if going for the lower off from the top anchor


16 bolts

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By Paul Irby
From: moab, ut
Feb 25, 2013

nice job guys. about time someone climbed this sweet looking line. it's hard to believe la vaca went up over twenty years ago. i must be getting old!
By Dustin Stephens
Feb 28, 2013

Thanks! The tufa took some scrubbin but the climbing turned out to be worth it. Did you put up La Vaca? Great route!
By Paul Irby
From: moab, ut
Mar 3, 2013

no, wasn't me. some dudes from indiana bolted that thing. I just happened to be there when it went up. That and cactus dancing were the first sport climbs on the mota wall which was formerly known as the Indiana Wall.

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