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Chiefshead Northeast Face
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YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a R

Type:  Trad, Alpine
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a R [details]
FA: Maximilian Barlerin, Quinn Brett
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 400
Submitted By: Maxito on Aug 6, 2015

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2nd pitch from belay. Quinn leading.

Seasonal Closures MORE INFO >>>


I am pretty sure this is a new route, but I stand to be corrected.

The route begins with some scrambling up towards the base of many dihedrals on the left side of the wall. Look for a good ledge just left of a prominent, hanging arete.

P1. Climb up a right-facing corner with a killer undercling, tiny locks, and long reach to an obvious, blocky band (some rotten). Mantel the band, and face climb into a large dihedral (5.12- R or 5.10 C2). Continue up the killer corner with great fingers, a hand crack on the left can be used at times. Belay at a good stance above the dihedral (5.11-). -ROUTE UPDATE (8/2016): I fixed a wire in the crux corner, the crux is now safe, although one still has to do a 5.9+ R move to gain the stance below the 5.11- dihedral.

The short corner/seam guarding this pitch was freed on-sight by the first ascent party, but due to the nature of the rest of the climb, we thought that a clean aid rating would not deter the 5.10 climber. The addition of a pin has been discussed and would remove some spice.

P2. Continue up a fading, thin hand crack, pull a couple face moves, and re-engage a sweet splitter over a small roof onto easier terrain. Stretch the rope generally up and left. This is good, clean climbing (5.10).

P3ish. Simul climb up then right around 200 feet of lower angle terrain. A wider dihedral above looks great, but we meandered further right to belay on a large, sloping ramp at another steep dihedral. This open book is obvious from the ground.

P4. Climb fingers in the corner. It is easier than it looks. Belay at the top (5.9+).

P5-7. Simul to the top. Head left at first up a wide blob, then go up. We meandered slightly right aiming towards an obvious finger/hand crack slicing the slabs. That adds a little extra climbing and jamming (5.7)!


This is looker's left of the NE Face of Chiefshead starting in a prominent corner system amongst a set of beige columns.


Double rack up to #1 C4; single #2, 3 C4, small Wires, and slings. Walk off.

Photos of Geronimo Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Open book, 5.9.
Open book, 5.9.
Rock Climbing Photo: First pitch from above.
First pitch from above.

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