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YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Stephen Mergenthaler, Ed Palen, Bob Starinsky Sept. 2003
Page Views: 1,543
Submitted By: Chris Duca on Mar 13, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (47)
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A deceptively tricky off-width just right of the clean Bozeman Bullet face.

Climb up, and through the tenuous off-width, clipping 2 bolts. Gain access to the ledge below the steep right-facing corner. Climb this, then head up and right to another steep corner. Use large incut buckets, and surprisingly good feet to gain access to the upper face. Continue to the top and shared anchor with Bozeman Bullet.


The all-too-obvious off-width to the right of Bozeman Bullet.


Standard rack up to #3.

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By Greg Kuchyt
From: Richmond, VT
Mar 22, 2010

There is a fun variation to this route that takes the hand crack through the obvious roof to the right of the ledge 2/3 of the way up. The Lawyer/Haas book has this at 5.9, but for me it felt harder as the described "perfect hand crack" ended up being a weird size for my hands. Bring #1 and #2 C4 size pieces for the roof crack.
By John Richardson
From: Greenfield, Ma
Apr 3, 2011

skip the two bolts with your #5 and #6 C4's :-)
By Nick Weinberg
From: Lyme, NH
Apr 8, 2011

Definitely do the 5.9 handcrack through the roof to the right. Better finish, well protected, and really just one move.
By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Jun 5, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Did the 5.8 roof crack, and the moves are pretty stiff. Thinking more like 5.8+, and the lead who climbed through the 5.9 variation thought it was much tougher (like 5.10-something).
By Nick Weinberg
From: Lyme, NH
Nov 21, 2011

Its easier (for me) than the roof on Moby Grape(5.8). Perfect hands with a sinker constriction once you pull it that is super secure. But I have relatively small hands.
By Benjaminadk
From: San Pedro, California
Jul 12, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

having a four and a five C4 arent necessary but its fun to use them on this climb.
By kenr
Jul 27, 2012

My hands are larger, so it took some fiddling to get a jam (sort of a thumb cam?) I felt solid on in the high crux bulge on the main route.
? Harder than 5.8 ? I'd say either you can get a jam with your right hand solid enough to hold you for a moment on the overhang while you grab with your left -- or you cannot. If you cannot, then I guess it's way harder than 5.8 (? or you just stick a cam into the crack higher up and grab its sling ?)
By PeterW
From: Dryden, NY
Jun 10, 2013

I'd say the roof variation goes at a pumpy 9+
By Benjaminadk
From: San Pedro, California
Jun 21, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

To my understanding....The variation to Geronimo just makes an exposed move right into the right hand crack once above the roof and goes at 5.9. The route Drifter is an R rated(because the face below) route that pulls into that same crack but through the roof from below. This thread is a bit confusing as to which move we are taking about.
By Dom R
From: Estes Park, Colorado
Apr 9, 2016
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

The 5.9 variation is the way to do this. Like Nick said, it's really just one move. I have larger hands and found it to be a thin hands pull, but you can chock your first knuckle in there up high and it's so good. I find this easier than other 9's in the park. If you use the small foot on the right side of the roof (the flake-ish one) my follower broke it off today on accident. I took a second lap up it to see how it felt without it and I didn't notice too much of a difference.

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