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Germany Rock Climbing 


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Location: 50.99162, 9.55265 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 77,654
Administrators: Shawn Heath, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Shawn Heath on Jul 15, 2007
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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BETA PHOTO: Germany climbing areas source: felsinfo.alpenverei...

Potential Hazards MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Located in the northern half of a magical place called Euroland. Friendly locals (who likely speak a good amount of English) are usually more than willing to help you figure out where you're going or which route is which. Most routes have UIAA grades (exception: a few areas in the eastern half).

There's also plenty of climbing history in Germany. Harder free climbing got its impetus in the 1970's from a man by the name of Kurt Albert, who invented the redpoint at the Frankenjura area. Also, if you're super-badass and looking for a decent 5.14+, check out Action Directe put up by Wolfgang Güllich.

Please respect local ethics. Some areas prohibit chalk and metal protection.

For a bit of cultural flavor, some of the pre-existing information has been organized under Archive pages.

Getting There 

Go to Euroland; it's a relatively large country with large amounts of beer.

The approach can be rather long if you start on a different continent.

Here's a handy map with a good overview of major climbing areas (in German): dav-felsinfo.de/ajaxdav/

Climbing Seasons 

Below you can see a general overview of what the weather is typically like throughout Germany. However, the area around Freiburg (South-west Germany) is the sunniest in all of Germany, whereas it typically rains more in the north and east (Sächsische Schweiz). In general, however, German weather in April and November is pretty crap, though somewhat unpredictable. That means that you may get lucky and have sunshine and warmth, but more than likely it will rain in those two months.
The Germans have a saying for April: "April, April, er weiß nicht was er will." Directly translated, the saying means "April, April, he doesn't know what he wants." You can have sunshine immediately followed by rain/snow, warmth and then a drop in temps, or just solid sunshine for a week followed by solid rain.
November has generally crappier weather than April.

Having said that, you can plan a visit to Germany despite the rain. If it's raining for a week, go to the Frankenjura or further South in Bavaria. You can't climb in Saxony at all unless the rain has ceased for at least 2 days, making this region as difficult to plan as a trip to England, weather-wise. In the Pfalz, you can also climb on the rock no matter what the conditions, just because the sandstone is so much harder than in the Sächsische Schweiz.

Area Organization 

The climbing areas linked on the left correspond to the "Germany Climbing Areas" picture and are large areas with many crags and up to many thousands of routes. More specific areas can be found by following these links to their sub-areas. If you have one in mind but don't see it right away and don't know exactly where it is, perform a search (on the right side of the blue bar at the top of every page on MP).

Most likely, Germany is a foreign country for you and thus, unfamiliar. If you would like to contribute routes or areas, please first perform a search to assure it doesn't already exist. If you don't find it, feel free to add whatever you've personally done (refer to Contribution Guidelines). For the areas I've created, I usually do them based on the parking lot if more than one crag is accessible from it. From there, I create sub-areas for the crags themselves. Here is an example: Kleinziegenfelder Tal. You can use this method for your contribution, or another if you think it makes more sense.

Climbing Season



Weather station 23.1 miles from here

1,568 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',104],['3 Stars',323],['2 Stars',491],['1 Star',431],['Bomb',23]
['<=5.6',244],['5.7',113],['5.8',158],['5.9',197],['5.10',493],['5.11',215],['5.12',83],['5.13',19],['>=5.14',3],['',0],['<=V1',7],['V2-3',26],['V4-5',8],['V6-7',3],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Germany

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Germany:
Höllental Standard   Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c     Alpine, Grade IV   Alpine : Zugspitze
Alpspitze Klettersteig (ferrata) Standard route.   Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c     Alpine, 2000'   Alpine : Alpspitze
Fahrradkante   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13     Trad, Sport, Alpine, 9 pitches, 800'   Alpine : Oberreintal
Panische Zeiten   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 45'   Frankenjura : Weißenstein
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Germany

Featured Route For Germany
Rock Climbing Photo: Here you can see the line of bolts to the top. The...

Edelweisskante (kante = arete) 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c  Europe : Germany : ... : Rodenstein
This route is AWESOME. Super cool arete climbing, but it's a little hard to figure out where it's going because you have to free solo up easy rock for the first 30 feet. After that, 5 bolts lead up super fun moves to the top of the cliff where you can enjoy a fantastic view. Remember that this is an arete climb, so when you start climbing, head for the bolt on the left side of the tower (you won't see the other bolts from where you are). When you get to it, get on the arete and you'll see the bo...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Germany Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Yum...towers!
Yum...towers!
Rock Climbing Photo: The Elbe River with some sandstone towers!
The Elbe River with some sandstone towers!
Rock Climbing Photo: Georg Hoffman on Muschkante (9-), Eifel.  Photo by...
Georg Hoffman on Muschkante (9-), Eifel. Photo by...
Rock Climbing Photo: Rothenburg
Rothenburg
Rock Climbing Photo: Korbinian. Wonderful wheat beer from the world's o...
Korbinian. Wonderful wheat beer from the world's o...
Rock Climbing Photo: Vitis. Wonderful wheat beer from the world's oldes...
Vitis. Wonderful wheat beer from the world's oldes...

Comments on Germany Add Comment
Show which comments
By Chris Vredeveld
From: Stuttgart Germany
Sep 7, 2011
Going to be moving to Stuttgart at the beginning of the year/end of the year. Looking to try and find a partner for either the gym or hopefully out in the real world. Haven't been climbing much lately but have led up to 5.9 in the gym. Would like to give alpine a try at some point to. Leave me a message here if your in the area.
By Chitro
From: Pune, India
Aug 17, 2013
I am moving to Bonn this October and would like to climb at Frankenjura on weekends. Anybody interested in partnering up for weekend climbing trips. A group of 3 or 4 would be fine too. I rope and quickdraws and moderate experience. I am a competent belayer and can belay with both gri gri and atc.
By scoTt Millbern
From: Langenfeld, Germany
Aug 21, 2013
Hey Chitro,

The Frankenjura is a little far for a day trip for me (I live just north of Cologne), but for a weekend we could work something out.

I plan on a weekend trip to the Pfalz soon as well if you are interested.
The Schwarze Säulen area has some good climbing as well.

Hit me up at rsmillbern@gmail.com if you are interested or for more beta on the area.

rainorclimb.com also has a map of "some" local crags, mostly more north.

scoTt
By Mike McDonough
From: Sindelfingen, Germany
Oct 20, 2013
hi im mike-mcdonough
i live in baden wuertenburg.
looking for anyone who wants to climb anywhere
rock or ice
just let me know, im also on FB