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The Nappy Dugout
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Geriatric Journey 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 135'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Cory Case and Brandi Horn
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 582
Submitted By: Michael Schneiter on Aug 12, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (28)
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Description 

Geriatric Journey is an excellent new route in Rifle, and it is not to be missed. It is a long route that requires an 80 meter rope or you must lower twice. Make sure you tie a knot in the end of your rope not matter what length of rope you have.

The route is characterized by long, steep, technical climbing. A hard crux is encountered right off the ground that you can protect by stick clipping the second bolt and is followed with great, sustained climbing that is mostly 5.10 and easy 5.11. There's another mini crux at mid-height that will probably get easier as better beta is discovered and chalk covers the best holds. You can shake out at the top before the final crux, pulling through the bulge to reach the top anchor.

Location 

It is in between Perfect Gun and Z Man on the right side of the Nappy Dugout in the area of the popular 5.10s such as PMS. Start from the same belay area as Z Man and Mr. Cranky Pants.

Protection 

20 bolts with an anchor on top and a midway anchor for lowering twice if you don't have a 80 meter rope.


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By Melissa K
Aug 15, 2016

Thanks for the hard work, Cory and Brandi! This route is a great addition. Super fun and long. I thought the crux was at the start for what it's worth.
By Michael Schneiter
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Aug 16, 2016

I forgot about the crux right off the ground. I'll update the description.
By Grindrite
Sep 24, 2016

What an odyssey! Long, varied, and fun climbing with a couple of crux sections and exciting finish to the anchors. Great job putting this climb up.
By Jamie Collins
From: Vail, CO
Aug 27, 2017
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Really great route! Super long and sustained. Immensely grateful to the FA party for putting it up.

As of 8/23/17, the 15th bolt is very loose. I tightened back down with my fingers, but it was pouring rain at the time, so I didn't have a chance to re-climb the route with my wrench. If anyone has a chance to re-tighten it, thanks!

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