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Gerbil Launcher 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Tucker Tech et al. -- 1989
Page Views: 41
Submitted By: Alexey on Jan 20, 2014

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First I paid attention and interest to this route looking at book 10d ow list, than I checked what "Gerbil launcher" mean in urban dictionary
And than I came to try this route.
The route shape well coincide with the name. ( I need to submit the photo) It start with boldery moves between 2 big holds which can be seen as entrance into… and than 10 feet of "tube" which is about 15 degree overhanging ow changing size from 4 to 7 inches and than 20 feet of flared/chimney.
Off -width short section is very hard for the grade. One section is completely shut me down where crack quickly transitioned from 5 inches(hang/fist stack) to 7 inches ( no stack). I pulled there on chock-stones inside ow and some face holds which felt like cheating. I suspect that those chock-stones are not natural and some one placed them to ease up the route.

When you done with chimney go 10 feet up and right on face holds to the anchor.


Left leaning ow/chimney just left from "Just Scraping By"


single from 0.5 to #6 Camelots
double #4, #5
Some small gear to back up the anchor. The anchor is one old piton and one hammered nut. Bring your bolt kit next time to make it solid

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