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George's Route (aka Binder) S 
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George's Route (aka Binder) 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: George Armstrong, Todd Gordon, Tucker Tech.
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 3,635
Submitted By: Randy on Oct 13, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (55)
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Susan Peplow leading George's Route 5.8


This route climbs the dark patina-covered, buttress (Buttress 3) just right of the buttress/face containing Dos Chi Chis and Yasmine Bleeth (Buttress 2, which has pointer above it).

Climb up past 6 bolts to a ledge [the Cross-Roads Finish, route 477, begins off this ledge]. 2 more bolts protect face to another ledge/block and a 2 bolt anchor/rap (100 feet!).

The logical finish to this route is to make a short (35 foot) rap down to the ledge system below, then climb left onto a very narrow and overbolted buttress [Cross-Roads Finish; route 477]. From the top of Cross Roads Finish, you can rap from slings to the rap anchor atop George's Route and make a second rap [100'] to the ground.


8 bolts; 2 bolt anchor, 100 foot rap off. Optional gear to 2.5 inches.

Photos of George's Route (aka Binder) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Working the bottom portion of "George's Route...
Working the bottom portion of "George's Route...
Rock Climbing Photo: Tim Pinar on George's Route.
Tim Pinar on George's Route.
Rock Climbing Photo: Binder
Rock Climbing Photo: Binder

Comments on George's Route (aka Binder) Add Comment
Show which comments
By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
May 12, 2005

a 60meter rope gets you all the way up and down. No anchors are at the ledge so if by some chance you wish to do it with a 50meter rope and in two pitches be prepared to rig a rap anchor from the ledge and leave it behind for we locals to get some more "booty".......
By Woody Stark
Oct 27, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Good warm-up for Dos Chichis and Yasmin Bleeth. It's well protected and has rap anchors to take you to the bottom with one rope. It's definitely the easiest of the three.
By C Miller
From: CA
Feb 25, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Decent climbing, but the first few moves are on somewhat questionable rock, and a fall before the first bolt is not a good idea. A #1 Camalot (or equivalent) can be place between bolts 6 and 7 if desired to ease the runout.

Easily done in one pitch up and down with a 60 meter rope; it's about 90' down to the top of the starting block. Two stars out of five.
By toddgordon Gordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
May 27, 2009

There is now a FP on the ledge, so there is something to clip before heading up to the last to bolts on the final's a wee bit hidden in an overlap, but still one should see it;....It's about a 1 1/2 in. big angle piton....
By attila
Feb 13, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Easy and fun. Pro is good, anchor is well placed.

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