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George's Buttress T,TR 
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George's Buttress 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Mike McEwen, Dom Dimwiddy
Page Views: 3,983
Submitted By: James DeRoussel on Feb 8, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (93)
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At the juggy, overhanging traverse. January 2007


This is the left-most route on Chimney Rock. Start in small corner near west end of Chimney Rock. Presently, it is necessary to climb over a small tree to get on the starting moves.

Start up low angle slab and walk right into big left-facing corner. Climb up dihedrals to large overhang/roof with good hands. Exposed traverse leads right under roof on huge hands. Exit this traverse up and right, and climb around corner on more jugs. Low angle offwidth leads up 15 feet to anchors.

Fun and well-protected!


Standard trad rack, Chain Anchors

Photos of George's Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Entering the wide crack at the top
Entering the wide crack at the top
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at George's Buttress.
Looking up at George's Buttress.

Comments on George's Buttress Add Comment
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By shad
Apr 3, 2003

super fun with awesome pro. Bring a biggish piece for the top. Awkward stance for two at the top. I bypassed the tree at the bottom on the right and traversed left soon afterwards.
By Almonzo Wilder
From: Flagstaff, Arizona
Nov 11, 2003
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I didn't really enjoy the awkward off-width section up top, but this is a solid route overall.
By Wes Turner
From: az
Aug 10, 2004

great route..not on par with agatha and slippey and thats why the 2 stars...lotsa fun though... for those of you who might be pushing it or having a little trouble up high..don't get tunnel vision! high left hand holds and feet abound! (If I remember correctly). make a stretch or pop to a huge jug for the pull to the top. I don't remember a large piece fitting very well. I think I chose a bomber .5 cam about 2-3 feet lower to protect the wide section.
By Boodge Nomchompski
Nov 8, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Link this route to the last route of the Standard Route via some 4th class scrambling for a very fun climb!
By Catherine Conner
From: Phoenix, AZ
Jan 19, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This is a great warm up, and great 5.7 lead, good pro all the way. And if you start left at the bottom, it's a little awkward, maybe 5.8/9-so start right where all the chalk is, duh. I liked having a 4 for the top. I will do what "The Boodge" recommends next time and link it with the standard-sounds cool.
By Jorge Achata
From: Lima, Peru
Nov 5, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This route is a lot a fun and it's awesome to practice placements. It will take all sorts of gear. Great warm up!
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 27, 2016
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

having done this route, Mistaken Identity, and Stoner's Boner each multiple times i'm pretty sure the only reason this one gets a lower quality rating (2.5 stars instead of 3) is because it's 5.7 and the others are 5.9. this is a solid route especially for mount lemmon.

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