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Evening Blues T 
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Gentle Violence 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Jonathan Garlough
Page Views: 983
Submitted By: chinos on Jun 11, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Meaghan Smith approaching the crux of Gentle Viole...

Description 

Climb up a short unprotected slab to the bolt line. Clip a bolt from the ledge and move up to the right facing arch and make the second clip. (A small cam between bolts can help ease the mind for the second clip). Strenuous moves lead to the third clip and the crux moves on the blank slab. Gain a flake and another bolt and continue up past one more bolt on an easier face with a brief run-out to the bolt anchor on the roof.
A second pitch project pulls the roof to another bolt and joins Gold Lion to finish.

Location 

The bolt line

Protection 

bolts, Maybe a couple cams


Photos of Gentle Violence Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: THE move. Climber, Jonathan Baldassare.
THE move. Climber, Jonathan Baldassare.
Rock Climbing Photo: Meaghan Smith starting the business on Gentle Viol...
Meaghan Smith starting the business on Gentle Viol...
Rock Climbing Photo: Meaghan Smith on the arching corner.
Meaghan Smith on the arching corner.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jon on the lead.
Jon on the lead.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jon on Gentle Violence.
Jon on Gentle Violence.
Rock Climbing Photo: The right leaning arch.
The right leaning arch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jay after the rail
Jay after the rail
Rock Climbing Photo: JimBo On the rail
JimBo On the rail

Comments on Gentle Violence Add Comment
Show which comments
By burlap submariner
Jul 4, 2012

Best hard route on the cliff, unique movement, tricky pro and clipping stances, and a very puzzling crux create a instant classic for the area. Crux is very short but awkward.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jul 5, 2012
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

fun interesting route... and very well named... The only thing that kept me on the wall was a steady string of cursing through the crux... i played with the move on the way down and it felt much more reasonable... great fun!
By EDGE
From: Between Nederland and Boulder,
Oct 27, 2012
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Absolutely beautiful route; delicate feet with powerful crimps and one desperate high step. I peeled at the crux a couple times, inches away from the good holds and the onsight, then yarded through that quarter of a move to finish. Next time I will try when I am a bit more fresh.

Gear notes: a 3/8 - 1/2" cam is helpful after the first bolt to keep you from hitting a ledge should you blow the long reach to bolt #2. Above the last bolt the climbing eases significantly, but a 1" cam will be welcomed by some.
By joshua corbett
From: Wolfeboro NH
Apr 4, 2013

This route is going to be the route to do for those who can climb this grade fun moves throughout the climb!
By EDGE
From: Between Nederland and Boulder,
May 14, 2013
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

The second and third bolt can seem like a long reach to clip, but my daughter is 5' 3" and had no problem reaching the second bolt; the third was a bit harder as it involved a strenuous one arm lock off to reach. Very clippable for everyone.
By xcrag-corex
Jun 13, 2016

As of today 6/13/16 a good size horizontal horn, about a foot and a half above and left of the second bolt, broke off while my friend was leading it. Said hold almost cleaned my clock but came to rest on the big ledge (where it still rests). My friend decided to down climb and back clean. This may alter the character of the route. I'll try to upload a picture for reference.
Rock Climbing Photo: Broken hold on GV
Broken hold on GV


Rock Climbing Photo: Broken hold on GV
Broken hold on GV

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