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Sabbatical Wall
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Baby Fat T 
Big V, The T 
Bon Voyage T 
Broken Dreams T 
Coat Hanger T 
De-Birth T 
Decreation T 
Dust Lung T 
Finger Fun T 
Genetics T 
Immaculate Conception T 
Induced Labor T 
Minute Man T 
Miscarriage T 
Mother  T 
My Son is a Perv! T,TR 
Reincarnation T 
Sabbatical 36 T 
Shotgun Wedding T 
Sperm Bank T 
Stillborn T 
Toss, The T 
Unknown D.F. Route T 
Unknown Flake T 
Womb, The T 
Workin' Man T 
Unsorted Routes:


YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c

Type:  Trad, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Kingsbury
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,317
Submitted By: Patrick Kingsbury on Jul 23, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: looking down from the anchor

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


Starts with a traverse in at a horizontal to a knee bar section, protected by a bolt and then a super thin splitter with face features to the anchor. Run out at top for the last 15 feet or so.


Just left of Immaculate Conception


Mostly black and blue aliens, a yellow C3, a yellow alien and a #3 BD at the start.

Comments on Genetics Add Comment
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By hkennedy
Mar 17, 2015

Thanks Pat for a really cool route, you have a good eye for these "new-school" routes. Just after the bolt I found that the yellow BD X4 worked super well, other than that the gear beta is right on.
By Nate Sydnor
From: Moab
Jul 7, 2015

I heard through the grapevine that the first free ascent of this route was done with fixed pins in place in the upper crack, which were then removed after the lead. Not that it particularly matters, but I'd be interested to know if there's any truth to that.
By Patrick Kingsbury
Jul 14, 2015

Nate, I originally aided the line and did use 2 pins towards the top to get the anchor where I wanted it. I removed the pins before the free lead, the day i aided it (pic above, no chalk), but did rehearse it quite abit on top rope. The slight run out where the pins were isn't the crux.

I did leave some pins on "Still Life", and one on "Decreation" further down the wall, that I did clip for the send though.

Glad you're psyched on some of these line's Hayden!

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