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Generation Gap 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Jordan Wood - 2011
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 65
Submitted By: Jordan Wood on Sep 13, 2011

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Description 

The route is split in half by a no hands ledge in the dihedral. The bottom and top are of comparable difficulty, but with very different styles. After the initial boulder problem, head straight up until the third bolt. The route initially went straight up to a series of sloping horizontals above the bolt and then left. Since then, a critical crimp has been considerably downsized. It is probably easier now to do the bouldery traverse below the bolt, join the dihedral and climb up to the bolt.

After the rest ledge, head left and enjoy quality overhanging slopers to the anchors. Be sure to give a soft catch for the upper crux, as you tend to swing into the slab below.

Location 

Left most route leaving the shared first bolt on the left side of the main wall.

Protection 

Seven bolts to bolted anchors with rap rings.


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