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The Sports Wall
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Beginner Sports T,TR 
Changing Corners Dihedral T 
Coffin Crack T,TR 
Don't Go Chasing Waterfalls S 
Generation Gap S 
Happiness of Pursuit S 
My Generation S 
Number 5 Crack T,TR 
Pet Semetary T,S 
Rufus' Roof Variation aka Climbing Sports T 
Slabtastic T,TR 

Generation Gap 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Ken Trout, 1992
Page Views: 1,681
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on May 3, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (60)
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BETA PHOTO: The route is the seam in the middle.

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Description 

Ex-warm-up, now a nice 5.11 clip up in its own right, Generation Gap is the left of the three main bolted lines on The Sports Wall. A thin seam leads the way immediately to the crux at 5.11a and the first clip. The route settles down after the initial difficulty to some fine 5.10 face climbing. It gets two stars for the fine quality rock, nice continuity at 5.10, and the occasionally devious move. It is a good, sunny spot in the early afternoon.

Protection 

QDs only. This 70 foot line needs 8 - 9 draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.


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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 2, 2017
By Joshua Lewis
Apr 9, 2002

Pumpfest with a capital P! Steep, balancey moves throughout. I was expecting one 11a move, followed by a 10a climb--wrong. Great line, for sure; challenging from start to finish.
By Brett Boyd
From: Louisville, CO
Apr 9, 2002

I think it is 10a after the initial moves. The moves just aren't obvious the first time that you do it.
By tobias Nitschke
From: CO
Jan 1, 2003

Good sunny spot in late afternoon as well.... A fun climb, turns out left after the third bolt, then back right after the fourth.
By Andy Mauk
Jul 10, 2003

It feels 11a if you don't know the beta, but I think if you know the beta it is really like 10c/d. Great route!!
By chris deulen
From: Castle Rock
Sep 25, 2004
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Every climb in the world seems easier than it is if you know the beta, you moron.
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 24, 2008

8/24/08: added a new bolt w/ring to back up the two rusty cold shuts. New bolt is triplex and all stainless hardware.
By Jon Zucco
From: Denver, CO
Jan 25, 2009
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

The initial move is a little balancy/pumpy; follow the arrow and start left with the rope on your left side to prevent entanglement.
By slim
Administrator
Jul 18, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Pretty good route. Kind of in your face at the start. When I did it, it was absolutely soaked which made it feel pretty desperate. There are a couple seams that were seeping some fairly wide swaths down the face, right over the feet I wanted to use. Then, of course, I endured the obligatory rain shower dousing.

The top is really cool - it seems like there is an unconformity and the gneiss becomes basalt that is similar to North Table Mountain. Pretty weird.
By John RB
From: Superior, CO
Nov 1, 2016

Why is there an arrow pointing left at the base of this climb?

If you go left and climb up, you're on My Generation (11c) instead.
By Derek Lawrence
From: Bailey
Nov 2, 2016

The arrow showed up after the flake which used to be used to start the climb from straight below the bolt fell off. I've assumed it was someone trying to point out the left hand hold for the new start...
By John RB
From: Superior, CO
Nov 2, 2016

How the heck do you start this route? I was just fooling around in tennis shoes at the base, but I couldn't see a sequence to get to the 2nd bolt that would be 5.11. Opening moves look super hard and off-balance.
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Nov 2, 2016

Definitely easier in rock shoes.
By John RB
From: Superior, CO
May 2, 2017

I've been on this climb a lot in the past few months (with no redpoint still.... I can do every move but not fit enough to put it all together). I absolutely love this route. The opening moves are tricky but doable once you get it figured out, and then it's a pumpfest to the top. The rock quality is good, though the big block that gives all the nice jugs (from about 6ft-to-15ft off the ground) doesn't look like it's attached to anything, but the route is 25 years old and the block is still there, so....

The only drawback to this route is the massive highway (and attendant noise) below you, but that's just the deal in Clear Creek pretty on pretty much every wall there.

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