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Generation Gap 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: John Storm, Stuart Ruckman, and Gordon Douglass 1988
Page Views: 2,590
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 24, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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Photo Cred: Chris Tolli


Just right of Goodro's Wall is a glass surface that someone decided was climbable. This route actually start in the gully to the right, and does a hand traverse along the obvious crack halfway up. Upon reaching the piton hidden in the crack, start to climb up the right-angling weaknesses/ crack, past a "lost" micro-nut, and continue to a thin finger ledge. From here launch into a couple of rightward lunges to good 2-3 finger ledges and pump out the climb. Not too technical, just tough on the fingers and almost no feet.


2 draws for the anchor (Goodro's Wall). Micro-nuts for the lead.

Photos of Generation Gap Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Traversing towards the piton
Traversing towards the piton
Rock Climbing Photo: Resting at the peton of Generation Gap.
Resting at the peton of Generation Gap.
Rock Climbing Photo: Generation Gap
BETA PHOTO: Generation Gap

Comments on Generation Gap Add Comment
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By d-know
From: electric lady land
Jan 28, 2006
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

alittle chossy at the top. cool movz
By David Shiembob
From: slc, ut
Oct 10, 2007

How hard do you guys think this is? It seems kind of soft at .12b, especially compared to Big in Japan. I also added a short loop of webbing to the first fixed pin, since a biner clipped directly into the pin was loading over the edge of the hand traverse a bit. No micro nuts needed as far as I can tell, just a couple draws and small TCUs. Wiggling in micro gear any higher than the obvious blue TCU would be way too hard I think. Still getting my nerve up for the redpoint...
By tenesmus
Oct 10, 2007

Felt harder than BiJ to me. The gear is there but pumper. Rate it after you place some gear on it.
By David Shiembob
From: slc, ut
Oct 10, 2007

Yeah maybe I'm being premature. A friend of mine just mentioned that he thought it was really soft, more like .11d, so that got me wondering. Hopefully I'll redpoint the thing soon, so I'll have a good idea then.
By drewford
From: Wasatch Back, UT
Aug 24, 2008

The topo photo is somewhat misleading. This is a contrivance, but Gen Gap does not use any holds on Goodro's. There is a thin network of cracks just right of GW. Traverse in from the right, climb directly up via thin cracks and face holds. Do it this way (FA style) while putting in all the gear. Legit 12b.
By dnaiscool
May 31, 2015

This was my hardest TR onsight, and because I have a pair of previously crushed heel bones, I opted to never attempt the lead...that cracked up rock supporting the gear placements gave me no confidence. As with any traditional climb, when you add "Place Gear" on to "Do Moves", you add significantly to the challenge and the difficulty. Having led Big in Japan (a clip-up), I think this route is .12b lead, placing all gear...just sayin'...and once you step off that hand traverse, it's business all the way.
By Zak123
Oct 30, 2016

Another favorite up BCC. Awesome traverse on good edges to some great climbing up through the small crack system. Old piton still seems to be good but who really knows. It's a must do if you like spicy BCC lines.
By Ben Ricketts
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 22, 2017
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Anyone ever fall on the obvious blue tcu at the top before the crux? I lead this once with the mindset that I was going to push and take the whip on that piece but ended up holding on and sending. I've never had the guts to go back and lead it again.

This one seems like a much better route to headpoint then onsight if 12b is near your limit.

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