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Suffer Machine 

General Malaise 

WI5 M6

   
Type:  Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 3 pitches, 300', Grade IV
Original: WI5 M6 [details]
FA: Jim Gudjonson, Sean Isaac, Brian Webster
Page Views: 411
Submitted By: Dave Rone on Nov 27, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Paul Gardner starting up P1.

Description 

P1: M3, 20m. Climb a gully through a couple rock steps, then up a snow covered ledge to a bolted belay station on the left.

P2: M6, 40m. Move right from the belay, and use good edges until you can stem up and get the first bolt (long runner recommended to reduce rope drag). Continue up to another bolt to where the crack trends right and the angle eases off. Climb the crack (gear, 2 bolts) to the ice ramp. If it's there, climb it about 10m to the belay/rap station. If it's not there, climb through a bulge in the crack (M6+) and on to the anchor.

P3: WI5, 30m. If there's ice, climb it to a cave. If no ice, rap off.

Location 

Start about 30m left of Suffer Machine. The start gully is obvious.

Protection 

Stoppers 2-8, a set of C3's, And C4's to #3, doubles on #2 & 3 will be nice, but not crucial. 4 bolts.

Bolted stations after P1 & 2, v-thread the ice.


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